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Black Gold

5.10b, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 259 votes
FA: Jim Steagall Kevin Sandefur Chris Werner Dave Sobocan
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (04) Second Pul… > Black Corridor > Upper Level > Upper Level - Left
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

The crux of this similar Black Corridor route is at the beginning and a stick clip might be in order. Long ways between first and second bolts to so a tricky mantle is involved. Good sport route but shorties might find some of the clips hard to reach!

Location

This route is the 6th route on the left wall (East Facing) in the upper Black Corridor and only 5 feet to the right of "Live Fast"; begin at a small right facing flake.

Protection

5 Bolts will find you at the fixed anchors for your rappel!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The starting holds of Black Gold.
[Hide Photo] The starting holds of Black Gold.
example of the right facing flake
[Hide Photo] example of the right facing flake
past most of the reachy stuff
[Hide Photo] past most of the reachy stuff

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This route can be a little reachy to the initial ledge and just past the second bolt. Requires some footwork... Feb 6, 2007
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Stick clipping the first bolt on this would have been a good idea. Real crimpy up to the ledge then great the rest of the way up. Sep 28, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Quality route. I found there are two ways to do the bouldery moves off the ground. Either left, easier, or right, a bit more difficult. Either way you climb it, there will be a deadpoint move that will perhaps stymie the shorter climber.

The chains, and perhaps the bolts, could use a replacement. The rings are quite worn. Mar 22, 2012
steple
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Anchors are worn through almost half way. Mar 5, 2013
Fan Zhang
Front Range, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Per above comments, consider stick clipping first bolt, which spun as of 4/6/14. Also make sure you have a solid belayer experienced with catching low falls, as the moves to gain the ledge below the second bolt are reachy, crimpy, and big (I'm 5'9"). Opening sequence felt like 5.10d, but the rest of the route eases up a bit and was very fun. Apr 7, 2014
Laura S
CO
[Hide Comment] Definitely glad I stick-clipped the first bolt. The move off the ground is fine, but the move to the first lip is very reachy for a shorter climber. Moving up past the second bolt is reachy as well. The beginning felt more like 10d at my height (5'5"). Comfortable climbing once you're past the 2nd bolt. Mar 25, 2016
Fernando Cal
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun start! Watch out for the boulder behind you, as a fall before the 1st bolt (crux) can put you in a weird place (hospital?). Stick clip recommended if not comfortable leading at the grade. Reach from the flake, but good holds after that. Fun start, middle and top was okay. Apr 17, 2017
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] A good route spoiled by poor bolt placement. Apr 18, 2017
Eddie Ferrer
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Very height dependent. If you're short, it'll feel a grade or two higher. Apr 19, 2017
Carolyn Prina
Los Angeles
[Hide Comment] Would not recommend this climb on lead due to the run out bolt placement. If you fall anywhere below the second bolt, you are decking and likely hitting the ledge. The risk of injury takes all the fun out of the climb. After the second bolt, it is super comfortable. Feb 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] Chains are worn halfway where they attach to the bolts. Mar 30, 2018
[Hide Comment] Anchor is good. First bolt is solid, but worn rock face allows the hanger to spin. 1-2 washers would help fix this, though that's just for aesthetics/ease of clipping. Sep 14, 2018
Eric R
Camarillo, CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Almost blew off the route while getting to the first bolt. Be careful. Jan 27, 2020
Eric Metz
Salem, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Poorly bolted IMO. First ledge is reachy, if you don't have a 6'+ span, it's going to add at least a grade to this climb. I could barely reach the second bolt from the ledge, if you're shorter, you're going to have to make 2-3 moves in order to clip, if you blow it, you're decking. 3rd bolt, while on 5.9 climbing, is off route, and I found it best to clip it from above, at knee height. If you're not very confident climbing at this level, I would consider scrambling the Boulder opposite this climb, and stick clip the second bolt. Feb 2, 2021
Chandler T
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This thing was reeaaachy. Bolts were poorly spaced. Felt closer to 5.10d - for the first 15 feet. After that, it's 5.9.

Also avoid climbing until after 11am. Otherwise - you have the sun pointing right in your eyes. Making it more difficult to see holds... and anything else for that matter. Nov 8, 2021
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Incredible how poorly bolted this is. It’s like the bolting party thought it would be funny to make the bolts look safe but then be just unsafe. Significantly harder than Fools Gold. Stick clip if you aren’t a 5.10d leader. Mar 25, 2022
Lauren Errichiello
Milwaukee, WI
5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] Tried and bailed on this route today. This climb is so poorly bolted I feel that it deserves a PG13 rating. I'm a fairly tall female climber and I could not reach the bolt to place a draw from the ledge without making committing moves into a no fall zone. That fact that this is rated 10b is absurd and honestly puts 10b leaders in danger. What a shame that this is sketch AF because it would actually be a really fun route if it was safer. Shitty bolting = DO NOT RECOMMEND. Nov 28, 2022