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Routes in Upper Level - Left

Black Gold S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crude Behavior S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Street Blues S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancin' with a God S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fools Gold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Live Fast, Die Young S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Tea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thermal Breakdown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jim Steagall Kevin Sandefur Chris Werner Dave Sobocan
Page Views: 3,159 total, 23/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Aug 14, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The crux of this similar Black Corridor route is at the beginning and a stick clip might be in order. Long ways between first and second bolts to so a tricky mantle is involved. Good sport route but shorties might find some of the clips hard to reach!

Location

This route is the 6th route on the left wall (East Facing) in the upper Black Corridor and only 5 feet to the right of "Live Fast"; begin at a small right facing flake.

Protection

5 Bolts will find you at the fixed anchors for your rappel!

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10b
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10b
A good route spoiled by poor bolt placement. Apr 18, 2017
Eddie Ferrer
Portland, OR
 
Eddie Ferrer   Portland, OR
 
Very height dependent. If you're short, it'll feel a grade or two higher. Apr 19, 2017
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
 
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
 
Fun start! Watch out for the boulder behind you, as a fall before the 1st bolt (crux) can put you in a weird place (hospital?). Stick clip recommended if not comfortable leading at the grade. Reach from the flake, but good holds after that. Fun start, middle and top was okay. Apr 17, 2017
Definitely glad I stick-clipped the first bolt. The move off the ground is fine, but the move to the first lip is very reachy for a shorter climber. Moving up past the second bolt is reachy as well. The beginning felt more like 10d at my height (5'5"). Comfortable climbing once you're past the 2nd bolt. Mar 25, 2016
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.10c
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.10c
Per above comments, consider stick clipping first bolt, which spun as of 4/6/14. Also make sure you have a solid belayer experienced with catching low falls, as the moves to gain the ledge below the second bolt are reachy, crimpy, and big (I'm 5'9"). Opening sequence felt like 5.10d, but the rest of the route eases up a bit and was very fun. Apr 7, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
On 3/6/13, the ASCA replaced the hangers on the anchor of this route and equipped them with quicklinks. Mar 6, 2013
steple
  5.10c/d
steple  
  5.10c/d
Anchors are worn through almost half way. Mar 5, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Quality route. I found there are two ways to do the bouldery moves off the ground. Either left, easier, or right, a bit more difficult. Either way you climb it, there will be a deadpoint move that will perhaps stymie the shorter climber.

The chains, and perhaps the bolts, could use a replacement. The rings are quite worn. Mar 22, 2012
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
 
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
 
Stick clipping the first bolt on this would have been a good idea. Real crimpy up to the ledge then great the rest of the way up. Sep 28, 2009
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b
This route can be a little reachy to the initial ledge and just past the second bolt. Requires some footwork... Feb 6, 2007