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Routes in The Bishop

Bishop Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bishop Offwidth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Craftwork T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ellingwood Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flounder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psycho Physics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unknown Handcrack - AKA The Right Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Duncan, Steve Stubblefield, Pat Peddy
Page Views: 984 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route begins behind the huge flake that is leaning against the Bishop's left-hand side, to the left of the Bishop finger crack.

Start by climbing on to a large boulder wedged behind the flake, and then straight up the classic stemming chimney, clipping 3 bolts along the way. There is a small foot ledge on the flake that allows you to climb out to either side of the cap rock. A few easier face moves brings you to a nice ledge with 3 bombproof anchors. 5.9-R.

Next, climb out left to the arete (crux) and then pull right of a small roof to gain the south face of the Bishop. Wild exposure, excellent rock. The crux and the roof are well protected. Climb up the face to good belay anchors. 5.11+ crux, followed by sustained 5.10 face moves.

Location

Walk into the chimney to the left of the Bishop's Finger Crack, and look up.

Protection

Quickdraws and a couple of cams up to about #3 may come in handy.

Photos

stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
I tried this thing with Pat some years ago. The "boulder problem" start was much harder than 11B--never got it. Rest of the route was pretty good, then a little run out at the top. Nov 17, 2009
Bill Duncan
Jamestown, CO
 
Bill Duncan   Jamestown, CO
 
You may be right Pat, this was Steve's opinion, and I perhaps spent too much time on that ledge to have an objective view. My rating was PDH. I seem to recall sliming that move more often than getting it clean. But it is a boulder problem . . . . May 8, 2008
Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
Wow Bill, super classic but never actually been able to do the crux. Me thinks you're sandbaggin' again. Sep 28, 2006