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Routes in Right Side

Funk Soul Brother TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Funk Soul Sister S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Name of the Game S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
P.H.D. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trip Like I Do S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Preston Sowell, 1991
Page Views: 396 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on the far-right side of the cliff and identifiable by the tan Fixe hangers on the bolts. Note - a stick clip is advisable for the first bolt of this route if not feeling solid.

Power out the short but steep start and then rock onto an easy slab which leads up to a lip encounter near the top just before the anchors. The rope drag is heinous on your rope when lowering, so better to rap off this one.

Note - the shuts at the anchor are quite small in diameter and should be upgraded, as they seem more appropriate for hanging ferns

Protection

5 bolts, closed shuts

Photos

Beau Skelton
Palm Desert, UT
 
Beau Skelton   Palm Desert, UT
 
This might be the first 1 star I've given on Mountain Project. Pretty poor excuse for a sport climb to be honest. Weird bolt spots, lots of rope drag, and the difficulty goes from 5.6 to 10b/c..

Consensus: 10a 1 star Aug 30, 2015
Cob Phun
5.11b
Cob Phun  
5.11b
as mentioned, this is the wrong route description. Description is for funk soul sister (10c per guidebook) which is the only route on this wall with tan hangers.

this route is 11a per guidebook, though going left at the bulge bypasses the crux and knocks it down, so don't do that unless you want it easy Aug 27, 2012
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
5.10d
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
5.10d
Yeah for sure, the bolts are in the wierdest spots. It's well protected, but the crux bolt makes the biner load wierd. This route was pretty fun, but 10d not 10b. There was an ancor in a good spot, but one bolt is coming out so now the anchors are over the top and create the worst rope drag. Jul 18, 2011
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10d
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10d
The description above doesn't match the route! The above description seems to fit one of the routes in the middle of the wall better.

The climb is equipped with Plated Petzl hangers not tan Fixe hangers. Also the anchors are at the end of an easy slab, and nowhere near the crux.

The steep start is soon passed and the 2nd bolt clipped. After that a slab gives access to a step wall with good holds. Passing the top of the wall onto the slab above proves to be the crux, and it is fairly fingery. Continue more easily passing one more bolt to the top.

This routes is not a good example of how to place bolts! The second bolt seems superfluous to requirements, however the trash left in the rock at the 5th should be removed. Nov 14, 2010