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Routes in The Alcove

Beavis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bedazzled S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Elvis S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Black Thing S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bunny Bionic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Burlygirl S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Burlymon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Butthead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Citation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Diarreah Cha Cha Cha T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Evil C S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil D S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fifteen Minutes of Fame S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Gag Reflex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get a Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glomathon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Gasp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Loser S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magma S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pink Slip S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Lunch S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sanitary Landfill S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She-Devil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shotgun Wedding S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slacker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Snackpack S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soloflex S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Thighmaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warm n' Fuzzy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where God Changed His Oil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ziplock S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 118 total · 1/month
Shared By: Michael May on Aug 11, 2006
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Loose and oily feeling rock. Bad, Bad, Bad.

Location

The Alcove

Protection

9 bolts to chains

Photos

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Steve Dodd
My Van
 
Steve Dodd   My Van
 
This is the distilled essence of Dierkes, which doesn't necessarily make for the best climbing. It is memorable though. Aug 7, 2017
Ian Cavanaugh
  5.11b
Ian Cavanaugh  
  5.11b
Knowing this was going to be a dirty mess I did t have high hopes for the quality. To my surprise the route actually climbed fairly well, pretty dirty with a few loose holds, but nothing new for this area. It was long and sustained and very engaging throughout. With some traffic and new bolts this could be a good route. Don't discount it just because people say it's chossy. And like all other routes in the alcove, just because there is chalk on a hold doesn't mean it's solid. If you climb delicately and check suspect hold you should be just fine. Anchors could be moved to a slightly better location. Apr 16, 2017
Flacker
Lander, WY
 
Flacker   Lander, WY
 
I got on this route expecting it to be the worst route in the Alcove (saving it for last). It was bad don't get me wrong, but I feel many other routes have similar chossy and oily feeling sections (like citation). Though this may have a longer oily section... and due to less traffic a little more chossy than most Aug 4, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Words cannot describe how terrible this route actually is. I figured, it looks awful but it's only 5.11 and can't be that bad right? Started up it, breaking of handholds and feet with almost every move. Clipped the third bolt and was contemplating my next move when both large/chalked jugs I was hanging on broke simultaneously. One struck me in the face as I whipped and both narrowly missed my belayer below. Due to the danger to my belayer, and my bleeding face, it was time to be done. Stay off this garbage pile. Apr 20, 2015

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