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Sizzlefoot

5.12b, Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 3 from 10 votes
FA: Mike Dahlberg, First Lead, 1990's. FFA - ?
Minnesota > Interstate SP (… > Pot Holes Area
Warning Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year. DetailsDrop down

Description

This beautiful problem sits in the center of the potholes area, the first area encountered when approaching the MN side of Taylor's Falls. On a busy day, hundreds walk through the gravelly spot below the wall, but the rare moment exists when climbing this route is a solitary experience, and the overhanging arbor and bubbling stream are electric.
Since it was first climbed, it has been top-roped countless times, led once (Mike Dahlberg - early 90's(?) - before the awesome thin cams of today), and bouldered (Andy Raether ~2001 - a bold ascent, given the landing [update: Word on the street (Adam Therneau) says that Nic and Chris H have also bouldered it - anyone else?]). With appropriate equipment, sound judgment, and motivation, this route is accessible to many more climbers in any of the three styles.
Although short, it contains some of the most enjoyable movement of any route in the state. The rock is solid, the holds are finger friendly (for a 12), and the spacing and position of the holds are not so outrageous that they disallow the emergence of character.
It's one of the easiest set-ups around too, with a five minute walk to the short cliff, a two minute walk to the top, and a five minute set-up.
Marvel at the fantastic movement, the killer hard, well-textured rock, the distinctly different character of the start and finish, and delight in the satisfying top-out.

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Travis Melin
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Im not sure if this is why the first ascentionist named it this, but i do recall my left toes being in a lot of pain due to a certain move high up on the route.... Nov 16, 2007
Sean Patrick
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] After reading Stone Crusade, I now wonder if some of those crazy dudes who liked to accumulate pins and screws in their bones (ie: John Sherman et al) ever did this thing. It would have been right up their alley, what with the blocks jumbled below, and crack moves above. Jul 3, 2010
[Hide Comment] Mike Dahlberg may or may not have been the first person to lead this climb, but Larry Waydra was sending it before Mike bought his first pair of EBs. Mar 30, 2019
Bryan
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Good rock climb. I had never been on this even though I've done most of the stuff at Taylor's. Finally threw a rope on it the other day and worked it out. Randy has a beta video on the bouldering version of this climb (even though it's done rope solo) and trying his beta made this feel way hard for me. Eventually worked out the tall person beta and it felt significantly easier (at least on top rope). Definitely some fun moves on this thing. Might consider bringing a rack up on top rope and eventually a headpoint or pulling the rope and bouldering it out but there is definitely an insecure move up top that makes the bouldering option not sound so fun. Worth getting on for sure.

Does anybody have any idea how many times this has been led? Sounds like at least twice? Mike D and maybe Randy? I'm sure a couple others have done it. Aug 23, 2021
[Hide Comment] Hi Bryan. I've never led it, only bouldered it. Pretty sure it's been bouldered half a dozen times or so. For a good landing, the problem is best done in the winter with snow on the ground. I am pretty sure Lynn Hill led it back in the day. Likely several others led it in the 90s/00s. Back then, this and Genetic were quite popular. No pads back then. Now with modern pads, makes more sense to boulder it, imo. Aug 24, 2021