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Routes in Pot Holes Area

Digitalis T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Genetic Conntrol T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Sizzler T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lunge or Plunge T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B
Poosker's Smooch TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Real Thing, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shlocksides T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sizzlefoot T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slicksides T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slicksides Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ PG13
Wheel, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg, First Lead, 1990's. FFA - ?
Page Views: 1,487 total · 10/month
Shared By: ferrells on Aug 11, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

This beautiful problem sits in the center of the potholes area, the first area encountered when approaching the MN side of Taylor's Falls. On a busy day, hundreds walk through the gravelly spot below the wall, but the rare moment exists when climbing this route is a solitary experience, and the overhanging arbor and bubbling stream are electric.
Since it was first climbed, it has been top-roped countless times, led once (Mike Dahlberg - early 90's(?) - before the awesome thin cams of today), and bouldered (Andy Raether ~2001 - a bold ascent, given the landing [update: Word on the street (Adam Therneau) says that Nic and Chris H have also bouldered it - anyone else?]). With appropriate equipment, sound judgment, and motivation, this route is accessible to many more climbers in any of the three styles.
Although short, it contains some of the most enjoyable movement of any route in the state. The rock is solid, the holds are finger friendly (for a 12), and the spacing and position of the holds are not so outrageous that they disallow the emergence of character.
It's one of the easiest set-ups around too, with a five minute walk to the short cliff, a two minute walk to the top, and a five minute set-up.
Marvel at the fantastic movement, the killer hard, well-textured rock, the distinctly different character of the start and finish, and delight in the satisfying top-out.

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TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Im not sure if this is why the first ascentionist named it this, but i do recall my left toes being in a lot of pain due to a certain move high up on the route.... Nov 16, 2007
ferrells
  5.12b
ferrells  
  5.12b
After reading Stone Crusade, I now wonder if some of those crazy dudes who liked to accumulate pins and screws in their bones (ie: John Sherman et al) ever did this thing. It would have been right up their alley, what with the blocks jumbled below, and crack moves above. Jul 3, 2010

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