Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,256 total · 8/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on Aug 11, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

  • RCM&W #17, p.158

Protection

standard rack.

Photos

TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Harder than it looks, Kudos to andy may for cruising up it. Nov 16, 2007
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
That route sucked.
Thank you. Dec 28, 2007
TREEfool
Hartford, SD
  5.11a
TREEfool   Hartford, SD
  5.11a
Out of all the routes I have ever climbed in my life this is my #1 most favorite (be it 500ft tall multipitch or insane boulder problems). How does this only have a 2 star rating!? It is possibly the shortest trad lead I have ever climbed but height shouldn't hinder this route's awesomeness.

The climb is basically a 5.5 route with a short and ridiculous 5.10 crux sitting on top of it. I placed two whole pieces of protection in the entire route. The crux is a battle of figuring out how to get your body into the chimney while using the nothingness below you.

It was super weird and I loved it! May 10, 2012
TREEfool
Hartford, SD
  5.11a
TREEfool   Hartford, SD
  5.11a
I led it again and I feel that the 10a rating is a complete lie. The first time I led this route I assumed it was for sure in the 5.11 range and was surprised to find out that it was only a 5.10a. This route makes "The Bulge" (which is also 5.10a) feel like a walk in the park. Sand bagged rating for sure. May 31, 2012
Ryan Amundson
minneapolis, mn
Ryan Amundson   minneapolis, mn
I treated the top section as an offwidth crack. My right hand was on the face (small hold above the roof, big reach) and left in the little finger pocket outside to the chimney. Then I bring my left leg up into the chimney and jam it in to hold my body. Next I will move my left hand into the crack within the chimney itself. From there I will grit my teeth and pull up into the chimney and do a butt smear while bumping my body up to the top out. I am sure there is an easier way, but this makes it loads of fun (and may increase the rating). Sep 24, 2013
bob bickford  
 
It originally was rated 5.9 along with Slicksides. Sep 16, 2018