PRINT: Rock Climb Wiggly, Owens River Gorge

Wiggly

5.11a, Sport, 200 ft (61 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 17 votes
FA: Croft, Mazzarella 2001
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > Land of the Giants

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

IMO, not close to the five star Marty considers it. It gets some points for length, but some of the rock is pretty poor (though it will probably clean up w/ traffic), the line is a little vague at one point and the hard part is relatively run of the mill and brief (though rope drag may make it seem longer.) The slab ending adds some quality.

Between the 6th and 7th bolt careful routefinding may be required.

Two 100' raps to descend.

Location

A little bit left of the left end of the Eldorado roof. Shares the first bolt with the much superior Probation Violation.

Protection

19 bolts. Some long slings are advised.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Abel finishing up Wiggly

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jonathan howland
San Francisco

I like this route more than Goldstein does -- as it has variety, length, and position -- and recall a crux some twenty feet (two or three bolts) below the marked one. Nov 4, 2006

Greg Barnes

5.10d

A 60m rope does NOT make it on this climb, you need a 70 or some simulclimbing. Cool line with some good rock and fun sections, but a poorly bolted section around the 6th bolt is not fun for the follower, and more importantly the 19-bolt pitch feels contrived. A nice small ledge at the 10th bolt or so would make a great belay station, and take the whole route down to 10c or so (10b first pitch, 10c second). I think making an intermediate belay station would produce a classic, exposed line that would see more traffic and clean up better. Dec 15, 2006

Jeff Scheuerell

Did this one years ago, wonder if it's gotten any better? Also remember it feeling a bit sporty. Need to revisit. Apr 18, 2017