Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Land of the Giants

Probation Violation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wiggly S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Croft, Mazzarella 2001
Page Views: 375 total, 3/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 7, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

IMO, not close to the five star Marty considers it. It gets some points for length, but some of the rock is pretty poor (though it will probably clean up w/ traffic), the line is a little vague at one point and the hard part is relatively run of the mill and brief (though rope drag may make it seem longer.) The slab ending adds some quality.

Between the 6th and 7th bolt careful routefinding may be required.

Two 100' raps to descend.

Location

A little bit left of the left end of the Eldorado roof. Shares the first bolt with the much superior Probation Violation.

Protection

19 bolts. Some long slings are advised.

Photos

Did this one years ago, wonder if it's gotten any better? Also remember it feeling a bit sporty. Need to revisit. Apr 18, 2017
Greg Barnes
  5.10d
Greg Barnes  
  5.10d
A 60m rope does NOT make it on this climb, you need a 70 or some simulclimbing. Cool line with some good rock and fun sections, but a poorly bolted section around the 6th bolt is not fun for the follower, and more importantly the 19-bolt pitch feels contrived. A nice small ledge at the 10th bolt or so would make a great belay station, and take the whole route down to 10c or so (10b first pitch, 10c second). I think making an intermediate belay station would produce a classic, exposed line that would see more traffic and clean up better. Dec 15, 2006
I like this route more than Goldstein does -- as it has variety, length, and position -- and recall a crux some twenty feet (two or three bolts) below the marked one. Nov 4, 2006