Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Spasmodic Rock

Joker and the Thief, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Lily and the Jack of Hearts S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
Page Views: 655 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Private Property Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Cool climbing on good-size holds. The route still needs a little cleaning but offers a nice pitch of steep climbing right off the road.

Location

On the right side of the South Face just right of the "Joker and the Thief".

Protection

Four clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Cleaned up a little more last night. Just stay right once you pull the roof and avoid the crumble. May 9, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Still shedding/crumbly. Good climbing on poorly cleaned rock- might get better with time. Hard to on-sight, as above the roof is a semi-blind balance move, but not hard once you know what to do. Bolt just above the roof is placed awkwardly for the rope if you go up and fall on that, which is the crux. Maybe a long draw (10-12" and beefy) would be best so you don't cut your rope or sling on the flake as your taut rope slices across it. Apr 26, 2011
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Meh. Short, dirty, and lots of crumbly rock. If I were a scout leader, I would take the kids here every day for a summer and eventually all of the duff might get cleaned off. Or maybe not. May 20, 2008
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11a/b
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11a/b
Fun bouldery feeling route, but a bit dirty. I suggest belaying off to the side to avoid being showered with grit. Jul 27, 2007