Trad, 120 ft, Grade II,
Avg: 2.2 from 6
FA: Pat Ament & pals, 1964
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - S Buttress
Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
An independent pitch with independent good climbing, perhaps this is referred to as a variation because it was used as an alternate finishing pitch to Pseudo Sidetrack
From the twisted juniper, climb up and into a hanging dihedral past some broken rock and so-so gear to reach a striking corner with a 1.5-3" handcrack. Climb this to the top and then go up and right, getting gear whenever possible, so as not to be for want of it later. You will head up and right out of the corner and see an old bolt with an old round aluminum hanger out and right on a sloping shelf. Clip it with a long sling (and screamer) or bypass this in favor of some small nuts left of it behind a 4" thick flake. Continue up and right through a bulge (bad gear, but good holds, 5.8?) and up to lower angle climbing, jugs,and more gear. Traverse right into trees and belay on upper juniper ledge (90') or continue up and finish as for the final roof of Archer McLanahan
to the left (5.8+?).
Descend via the descent as for 'The Bulge
' or via East Slabs if finishing on Archer McLanahan
A standard light rack with a few long slings. The best part of the climb is a hands to thin hands crack in a solid corner, but there is a funky start with lesser gear (5.7?) and a steep finish on face holds (5.7 to 5.8, S) that is protected by an ancient bolt and round aluminum hanger... I didn't bother clipping it, placing a few small nuts instead and climbing more directly.