David A Groth Lacrosse

[Hide Comment] Give it all the stars....it is one the DL's best test piece routes. Oct 25, 2006

Eddie Avallone Lewisburg, WV

[Hide Comment] how is this thing for pro, are the pins gone? if so, do nuts work where they were? Nov 27, 2006

David A Groth Lacrosse

[Hide Comment] The gear on the route is good but spaced out in places. Most of the old pins have cams and wire placements close. Just don't pass up any good gear placements and you will be fine. I would recommend putting in a few pieces at the crux in the center of the route. Make sure you use the pin & large sideways wire placement at the start. bring extra 1" to 2" cams I think Pete's 1965 onsight lead good be one of best accomplishment at DL! May 5, 2007

Tradiban   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Wow, great route, the crux had some awkward finger stacking for me. Led today grabbing handfuls of snow on the top out. I used a #0 cam at the start, wouldn't want to fall there though. Gear is spaced out so a fall would be long one but safe. Anyone have opinions on the block halfway up that you can place nuts behind? It looks solidly wedged in there, anybody seen a fall on it? Pins are still there but I don't they are needed anymore with the tiny pro we can buy in this day and age. I second Pete's on-sight as the greatest accomplishment at DL. BTW, ignore this climb if it's under 30 degrees, very shady area. Nov 26, 2008

Kris Gorny   5.11c PG13

[Hide Comment] Nick -- the block does feel hollow and little iffy. I think it's ok for little falls, especially when a nut is placed at the bottom of the block. I would not risk a big fall on it -- I don't think the entire block would dislodge (not yet at least) but for the gear to pull, the block needs to move just a little. There are solid small cam placements higher up on the left but one needs to be careful with the rope (see the pic of the fall). I remember adding a #1 BD cam/long sling in the crack to the right. In any case, falling near the top is always an adventure, imho (see pic again :)). Nice lead man! Way to send it in the snow. Dec 6, 2008

Isaac Therneau Rochester, MN   5.11c PG13

[Hide Comment] A benchmark climb for the grade and certainly one of the best routes at the lake. May 15, 2009

Tradiban   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Did anyone notice that Sven says this is 5.11a in the new guide! Sep 21, 2010

John W. Knoernschild Wisconsin

[Hide Comment] I believe Son of a Great was the first .11c in the US. Sep 22, 2010

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11b PG13

[Hide Comment] Not sure about the first 11c in the US, is that true? A while back I said to Gorny that I wasn't sure it was really 11c. Gorny's response was, "Maybe, maybe not. But it is a fantastic climb." Yup. To me it still does not feel 2 letters harder than Thoroughfare or Beginner's Demise, but that shouldn't detract from the amazing experience of climbing it. Sep 22, 2010

John W. Knoernschild Wisconsin

[Hide Comment] Not sure if this thing is completely accurate, but stanford.edu/~clint/yos/har… It is listed as the one of the first 5.11s. So I was wrong. Sep 23, 2010

Burton Lindquist Madison, WI

[Hide Comment] Doesn't SOGC get the two extra leter grades just for its obvious intimidation factor? The whole route is quite fear inducing when looking at it standing below and sizing it up... Sep 23, 2010

Tradiban   5.11c

[Hide Comment] C'mon, do you really think this is the same grade as Thoroughfare, Cop-Out, Beginners Demise, etc? SOGC is at least 5.11b Sep 23, 2010

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11b PG13

[Hide Comment] You're probably right Nick. I did not flash SOGC despite having good beta. Sep 24, 2010

Tom Mulholland #1 Cheese Producing State!

[Hide Comment] Can anybody give me a better idea of where the regular SOGC and the direct split? Is it from that no-hands/sit-down ledge, or is it above that? When I led this, I finished in the center of the face, which I found easier, but also placed some pro in the arete. Oct 5, 2010

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11b PG13

[Hide Comment] My understanding is at the last piton. From there reach a couple feet left and up into/onto the left-facing crack system and strenuously crank onto the face. Oct 5, 2010

Remo Madison, WI   5.11a

[Hide Comment] FINALLY led this yesterday(not sure what took me so long). I used to feel it was hard 11, but I have great beta for the crux and now think 11a is a better fit. Oct 29, 2011

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11b PG13

[Hide Comment] To whom is missing it: I was able to get your stuck DMM nut off this route. PM me and I'll get it back to you. May 21, 2016

Brian Seegers

[Hide Comment] I was super excited to lead this route with the encouragement/belay of Clayton Groth. As my climbing abilities are not up to the standard of a lot of people who have lead this route, I headpointed it and threw in (Beta alert): A couple of extra pieces to supplement the gear beta that Chris posted on the Direct's page. I threw a sling over a big block on climbers left to "protect" the moves up to the first couple pitons, backed up those pitons with a red C3 and threw a blue dmm offset nut in the separated block/shield. An excellent route and I have deep respect for those who have lead it with inferior gear and better style. Oct 17, 2016

Li-En Tai Elgin

[Hide Comment] Great route. Pete said yesterday his FA was in 1967. I've seen '65 - '68. Maybe his memory is fading. He called this only a 10! Also, he mentioned he lead this in mountain boots and had to hammer in the pitons for his FA. Wow. Sep 18, 2018