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Bikini Girls with Machine Guns

5.11a/b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 361 votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Valhalla > 1. Vietnam
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

Sick climb!

Easy start in the crack quickly turns into 2-finger pocket pulling for a short crux then eases up.

Classic

Location

Between Napalm Crack and B. Wax

Protection

7 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Around the 4th bolt.
[Hide Photo] Around the 4th bolt.
DI cruising the route.
[Hide Photo] DI cruising the route.
I think this rail up and to the right towards the end is what is considered off route... or maybe just easier.
[Hide Photo] I think this rail up and to the right towards the end is what is considered off route... or maybe just easier.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] What a name! What a climb!! Excellent and varied with some fun pockets. May 26, 2009
Mike Lane
AnCapistan
[Hide Comment] I was going to use that name. At least it has a good home.
youtube.com/watch?v=nBo4wZm… Jun 16, 2009
TJ Esposito
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] First bolt is missing a hanger. Can either stick clip it (big branch at the base if you don't have one) or just skip it, the moves to the second bolt are pretty cruiser. May 29, 2014
George Schuhmacher
Logan, UT
[Hide Comment] Large flake came off and almost nailed my belayer in the head while using a small foot on this route, be careful!! Aug 26, 2014
Aaron Furman
Golden, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
[Hide Comment] Great Climb, did this onsight at the end of the day and in the darkness of night with NO complaints. Like most of the routes in Ten Sleep, the first bolt seems a little low to the ground, I suggest skipping it. 4th Bolt is above the money hold so be mindful of where you are gunning it to, you don't want to over shoot the greatness of this climb. Jul 27, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This was the only Ten Sleep classic that really disappointed me. It’s short, polished, and wanders about. The only good climbing is the short 2 finger pocket crux section. Comparable classics like Circus in the Wind are just so much better. Not American flag worthy IMO. Just my two cents. Jul 16, 2019
Ryan Westby
Portland, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Here's a video of the climb: youtube.com/watch?v=_4yUuI1…

The two-finger pockets throughout the route are fun to climb on, but the route doesn't flow quite as well as its neighbor Pussy Control. Both are still great fun and worth a trip out to Valhalla alone. Jul 15, 2021
James Baker
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] Pull down not out on the chalked up flake/sidepull through the first part..it flexes Oct 29, 2024