To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Bikini Girls with Machine Guns
5.11a/b,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 361
votes
FA: Aaron Huey
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Valhalla
> 1. Vietnam
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Sick climb!
Easy start in the crack quickly turns into 2-finger pocket pulling for a short crux then eases up.
Classic
Location
Between Napalm Crack and B. Wax
Protection
7 bolts
[Hide Photo] I think this rail up and to the right towards the end is what is considered off route... or maybe just easier.
Boulder, CO
AnCapistan
youtube.com/watch?v=nBo4wZm… Jun 16, 2009
San Diego, CA
Logan, UT
Golden, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
Portland, OR
The two-finger pockets throughout the route are fun to climb on, but the route doesn't flow quite as well as its neighbor Pussy Control. Both are still great fun and worth a trip out to Valhalla alone. Jul 15, 2021
Bozeman, MT