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Routes in Lost Highway Area

Avalon World AKA Chong's Biway S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheech and Choss S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Choss Boss T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Cross Your Mind S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heavy Duty AKA Moss Highway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Highway S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Your Mind TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleepwalkin' S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wizard of Moss , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1999
Page Views: 1,101 total · 8/month
Shared By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2006 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a challenging route. Begin from the top of the pillar described below. Climb to a roof, then undercling left and pull around to the left side of a sharp arete. Climb straight up to where the angle eases, veer left, then back up and right to the 2-ring anchor at the top of the wall.

NOTE: Bob D'Antonio's guidebook has Lost Highway and Orgasmatron switched in the photo. On the third pitch, Orgasmatron is to the left of Lost Highway.

Per Carl Schaefer: in the 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook, a correction now shows Orgasmatron to the left of the 3rd pitch of Lost Highway.

Location

This route runs parallel to the final pitch of Lost Highway and begins from the common belay atop a large pillar. The Lost Highway Area is located at the far right side of the wall. Hike the West Trail to near its high point, and take a left branch that leads west to a large boulder perched on bare granite. Continue down to the north about 30 feet, down a short groove, and locate a 2-bolt anchor on a small and exposed ledge beneath a scrub juniper. Rappel 85 feet to a good ledge atop a pillar. The Orgasmatron may also be reached by climbing the first two pitches of Lost Highway (q.v.).

Protection

9 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor at either end of the pitch.

Photos

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