Avg: 2.7 from 58 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Jay Goodwin, Bill Boyle 1980's|
|Page Views:||446 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Fisher on Aug 4, 2006|
|Admins:||grk10vq, Mike Engle|
AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.
Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.
1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.