Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin, Bill Boyle 1980's
Page Views: 365 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 4, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


57 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.

Location

Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.

Protection

1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.

Photos

Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
must be solid on runout easy climbing. crux is more mental than phyiscal. great long route. Jan 25, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Enjoyable route. Protects well. One set of cams from TCU to #3 camalot and nuts would probably suffice for most people, as there are plenty of opportunities for nuts. Crux is very well protected by small nuts. Sep 4, 2007
Michael Buchanan
  5.10b/c
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10b/c
Dot think the route was runout very much. Crux is fun and well protected. Can fire in a pink tricam below roof and a orange TCU above bulge. Climbing get easier after initial crux. When I did it, there were cob webs in the crack... There are anchors to the climbers left above the 11a sport climb. Jul 22, 2010
Thomas G.
SLC, UT
  5.10c
Thomas G.   SLC, UT
  5.10c
Really fun route - very safe with great protection available virtually wherever you want it. For a leader who is pushing the grade (such as myself), I found a double set of cams to three inches (with extra micros) to be a comfortable rack. Oct 22, 2018