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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin, 1983
Page Views: 4,144 total, 30/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 4, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


106 Opinions

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Description

AKA: Jay Goodwin Route.

This starts just left of Preteen Sex, this bolted line is a good warmup for the tougher routes on the wall. 5.10a crimps abound, with a little bit of runout.

Location

Left of Preteen Sex, the right bolted line of the two.

Protection

3 bolts to 2 massive chains.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a PG13
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a PG13
ground fall would be from like 40' up if you slipped before reaching the 2nd bolt, it is easier there but still run-out. You could place gear before the 1st bolt, also the bolts are ancient. Oct 29, 2016
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Stick clip the first bolt - looks runout but easy climbing to second and third bolt - crux after the third bolt is well protected. Great warmup - 5.9 cruiser other than crux move. Can top-rope the stout 11a directly to the left. Oct 29, 2013
The route shares an anchor with Dimples and Tits. Jun 15, 2013
Michael Buchanan
  5.10a PG13
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10a PG13
Awesome route. A fall between the second and 1st bolt may be troubling, but the feet and hands are all there. crux is after the third bolt. Jul 22, 2010
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Short but well worth doing. Interesting moves. First bolt a little ways up there! Jul 15, 2008