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Steel Graffiti

5.10c/d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 108 votes
FA: Brian Smoot
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Escape Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Starts with jugs to the first bolt over a small roof then fairly thin between the first and third bolts. The crux is just after the fourth bolt. Thin, but reasonably good feet and some sidepulls will see it through (kinda scary though - it's a good distance from the fourth to the fifth bolt).

After the fifth bolt it is much easier with only one last thin move right before the last bolt.

Overall, a fun, longish route (A 60m rope is plenty; a 50m would probably be just long enough - a knot in the end would be a good idea).

Location

This is the 5th route from the left on the main section of Escape Buttress. It's unmistakable because the first bolt is at the lip of a small roof.

Protection

8 lead bolts, 2 anchor bolts with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1 [[106061640]] 5.11c<br>
2 [[106061625]] 5.10b<br>
3 [[105741962]] 5.10a<br>
4 [[105741083]] 5.10b<br>
5 [[105741086]] 5.10d<br>
6 [[105741332]] 5.10d<br>
7 [[105741323]] 5.10a<br>
8 [[105847408]] 5.10b<br>
9 [[105741335]] 5.10a<br>
10 [[107648212]] 5.10a<br>
11 [[105999582]] 5.10c<br>
12 [[106009113]] 5.10b/c<br>
13 [[105741326]] 5.11a<br>
14 [[106009030]] 5.11b
[Hide Photo] 1 Rock Requiem 5.11c 2 Presidents Day 5.10b 3 No Escaping Death 5.10a 4 Jug for Joy 5.10b 5 Monkey Meet 5.10d 6 Inside Information 5.10d 7 Twist and Shout 5.10a 8 Steel Graffiti 5.10b 9 Awa…
Steel Graffiti. Love.
[Hide Photo] Steel Graffiti. Love.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Pretty sure a crimp broke on this thing around the second bolt. It seems now a fair bit harder than I remember it being. May 14, 2021
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Fun route, but definitely harder than .10c now. Crux is now just above the second bolt and is solid .11a, small greasy right hand crimp to shallow slopey left hand two finger pocket. Nov 15, 2021
Matthew Pieper
Henderson, NV
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] This thing is an immediate V4 boulder attached to a 5.7 romp. Upper section is heads up (maybe 25ft between bolts at points), but if you can get the boulder you should be chillin. Jun 3, 2023
Thefryman Fryland
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] I thought it was a little harder than Rock Requiem. But super fun Mar 10, 2024