Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: James Stover, Mack Lewis, Fall 2002
Page Views: 1,069 total · 7/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Aug 3, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Two routes head up the smaller formation immediately opposite of the start of the "Long Dong Wall route". This "Crack of Noon Tower" is for those who get scooped on the Kissing Couple because they got the "gentlemen of leisure" start!

The climber's left is supposedly easier than the chimney on the right. I won't spoil the adventure for you. The "Crack of Noon Route" on the climber's left is of a fair quality for the Monument with a few good sections. I have not climbed the "Right Route," but Mack and his (brother?) reported it to be fairly sustained and scary. On the FA, James and Mack were forced to simul-rappel off the top putting the finishing brush strokes on a true quality desert adventure that left the least amount of impact as possible. It has been rumored that there were anchors placed by an unknown party at a later date.

The line in green on the beta photo looks to be an excellent fistjam adventure long and sustained. It is probably undone, unless Matt L. or one of the countless other hardmen around here scooped her up.


Save a few fist or big hands pieces for the top of "Crack of Noon Route."


There is a single bolt on top of the left crack that is across from the start of Long Dong Wall. We backed up the bolt by slinging a hole in the rock. Nov 5, 2007