Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
FA: Equipped by Dan Hare and Richard Rossiter, FFA: Upper Section: Dan Hare and Bruce Adams FFA: Peter Hunt
Page Views: 1,319 total · 6/month
Shared By: Peter Hunt on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The crux pitch features a stout roof and then a continuous, technical arete section. Nice moves on good rock in an gorgeous, exposed location.
Climb up the corner, the approach pitch, with a few medium pieces for protection (60 feet, 5.7) to the belay bolts.
The line of bolts that starts ten [feet] from the belay and goes to the left of the roof is the start to the Vanishing and Phantom Bridge. Instead, run it out (20 feet 5.7) to a bolt under the large roof. Go up the roof past three bolts (12b), shake out, and continue up and a bit left to climb a line of bolts just right of the arete. (This is between The Vanishing, which is left of the arete, and Phantom Bridge, which climbs an inside corner to the right).

Location Suggest change

Third class down the gully from the right end of Midnight Rock (Viola) for 50 feet or so until you see a corner system heading up to a double bolt belay under a clean wall with two prominent roofs and three bolted lines.

Protection Suggest change

A few pieces for the first pitch. If you want to protect the run-out to the first bolt on the crux pitch, it might be possible. Something like ten draws will get you through the crux pitch. A long sling under the roof helps to minimize rope drag.


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