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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)

A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mind Meld TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Mind over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Bob Kamps, and Kevin Wright, Oct. 1988
Page Views: 872 total, 6/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Do the crux roof of Head Over Heels, but head up and slightly right on the steep wall above. The climb finishes on a ledge system half way up the rock, with a walk-off descent. The route has fun moves past overhangs with excellent protection.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c
Just clarifying - there are three bolts on this route, not two (as mentioned). One above the Head over Heels crux, one about 5 feet above the first bolt, and one above the final roof move. The next gear from the last bolt looks to be a ways out. If you traverse directly to the right from the last bolt, the route wouldn't be too scary getting to the next pro. If you head up and right from the last bolt, your next gear will be about 13 feet above the last bolt through pumpy terrain. Mar 25, 2013