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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, and Charles Cole, Nov. 1982
Page Views: 606 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Well to the right of the center of the wall, this route climbs to the top of a tower. It is loose and scary, a route to avoid.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Stephen D  
 
Climbed this november 2017, loved it! Very fun, varied climbing with a super well protected but intimidating looking and highly exposed crux near the top on super hard rock. The only loose part was the 5.4 first 20-30 feet of it but it's so easy compared to the rest of the climb that it doesn't matter, and you could protect it well if you really want to. The downclimb is 15 feet of V0- but, you know, don't fall!
I don't know if it has changed greatly in the past few years but I would highly recommend this climb - at the very least, don't intentionally avoid it because of earlier posts! Dec 1, 2017
mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
This is a choss pile and almost entirely boring anyway. There's only a very short section of mildly interesting moves on decent rock at the top. I'm not even sure why this route is included in the guidebook. Skip it and move on! Oct 14, 2016
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Don't tell anyone, but this route is a lot of fun! Varied climbing over flakes and plates along the periphery of a trough leads to an step out to the left onto a pretty wildly exposed face, a great summit, and a spicy downclimb. Joshua Tree gear; take it for what it's worth. Jan 3, 2012
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Just climbed this excellent route. The upper exposed buttress is super exciting with good rock. At the start, stay on the steep flakes, not the dirty trough. Mar 22, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
This route must have cleaned up over the years - some loose rock exists but there's nothing dangerous, and the exposed finish more than makes up for the lower portion. That said, it's still probably best recommended for those solid at the grade.

To descend: downclimb the short face to the north (climber's right) and then circle around the back to reach the rap anchors atop "The Importance of Being Ernest". May 4, 2008