Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, and Charles Cole, Nov. 1982
Page Views: 670 total · 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Well to the right of the center of the wall, this route climbs to the top of a tower. It is loose and scary, a route to avoid.


standard rack


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
This route must have cleaned up over the years - some loose rock exists but there's nothing dangerous, and the exposed finish more than makes up for the lower portion. That said, it's still probably best recommended for those solid at the grade.

To descend: downclimb the short face to the north (climber's right) and then circle around the back to reach the rap anchors atop "The Importance of Being Ernest". May 4, 2008
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Just climbed this excellent route. The upper exposed buttress is super exciting with good rock. At the start, stay on the steep flakes, not the dirty trough. Mar 22, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Don't tell anyone, but this route is a lot of fun! Varied climbing over flakes and plates along the periphery of a trough leads to an step out to the left onto a pretty wildly exposed face, a great summit, and a spicy downclimb. Joshua Tree gear; take it for what it's worth. Jan 3, 2012
Matt Hagny  
This is a choss pile and almost entirely boring anyway. There's only a very short section of mildly interesting moves on decent rock at the top. I'm not even sure why this route is included in the guidebook. Skip it and move on! Oct 14, 2016
Stephen D  
Climbed this november 2017, loved it! Very fun, varied climbing with a super well protected but intimidating looking and highly exposed crux near the top on super hard rock. The only loose part was the 5.4 first 20-30 feet of it but it's so easy compared to the rest of the climb that it doesn't matter, and you could protect it well if you really want to. The downclimb is 15 feet of V0- but, you know, don't fall!
I don't know if it has changed greatly in the past few years but I would highly recommend this climb - at the very least, don't intentionally avoid it because of earlier posts! Dec 1, 2017