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Routes in Banana Cracks

Baby Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Peel T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Banana Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Papaya Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Banana Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tails Of Poodles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Charles Cole, 1982
Page Views: 740 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A wide hands crack leads to a crux overhang finish.

Location

This is the first crack system to the right of the Banana Cracks, and starts at the same height as they do.

Protection

Gear to 3 or 4 inches

Photos

mhagny Hagny  
 
For gear on the exit, I stepped up one move from the ledge and felt secure enough to place a yellow Metolius finger-size cam at arm's length out to the left in the horizontal. I chose to go straight up on crimps (10c) as I hadn't seen the line drawn here showing that it goes way out left. Fortunately we had set up an anchor and rapped into the start of this climb, and our anchor was extended over the lip, so I didn't actually have to roll over the lip -- that would've been quite frightening. Dec 12, 2017
I thought the cruxy finish was a bit scary (and harder than advertised), with potential to pendulum and smack back into the ledge if you came off near the end. Powerful, overhung campusing-type moves out left along the horizontal with nada for feet; good luck trying to place gear in that section. Feb 6, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Good climb, lots of solid fists in a corner. Nov 2, 2011

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