PRINT: Rock Climb Right Banana Crack, Joshua Tree National Park

Right Banana Crack

5.11a, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 56 votes
FA: Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Banana Cracks

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The formation comes into the sun by late morning.

The Right Banana Crack was one of the hardest routes in the 1977 guidebook. It is an exciting lieback and hand crack, with great protection.

Location

The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof.

Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right Banana Crack. Josh

Right Banana Crack. Punchy. <br>
<br>
Photo: Erica Maharg

Right Banana Crack. Punchy. Photo: Erica Maharg

Andrei Ribeiro cranking the crux of the right banana crack

Right Banana Crack

"Right Banana Crack" follows the right-hand crack in the photo center. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate R
Boulder, CO

5.11b

You don't really need gear to 4 inches. A single #3 camalot works fine. Feb 21, 2008

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.11b

Sweet crack climbing to a burly crux. I ended up cranking on a fist jam to get through it (after a fair number of falls). My buddy did it without the fist jam and instead used crimps out left. YMMV.

A #3.5 camalot went in perfectly just below the crux. You could probably get by with a #3 instead. A #4 would fit in the wide spot right at the crux, but it would be pretty fricken hard to stop and place gear through that section!

When combined with Left Banana Crack, this makes for a great, shady morning spot. Apr 23, 2008

Jared Vagy
Santa Monica, Ca

Climbed it on March 3, 2012 and the cams at the crux were messy and annoying (although they served as a good excuse for me not sending the route). Thanks for cleaning them! How were you able to clean them? They were pretty well in there... Mar 6, 2012

Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…

Thanks for cleaning them! How were you able to clean them? They were pretty well in there...

They we absolutely welded in there. I used secret tools and techniques to free them. Took a while though even with the advanced techniques. They will both need some work to ever function again. Both were #1 Camalots. Mar 6, 2012

Russ Walling
Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…

I don't think it needs a bolt there as the epoxied #6 hex is still holding nicely. I'll watch it though. Mar 6, 2012

Gumby boy king

5.10+

Looks can be deceiving. Its really ring locks to hands to tight hands climb. Pretty fun and in a cool area. Nov 6, 2019

jt newgard
San Diego, CA

Very physical. For reference I was able to pull Grit Roof clean but fell once on this one. As they both involve steep jamming, I believe the comparison is appropriate.

I placed a yellow totem (finger-size cam) in a horizontal out left, after pulling above the crux bulge. This kept the rope out of the crack and made the belay quite pleasant.

I fell half because I had horrible thin hands pump, but also because my foot pinched the rope in the crack at the critical moment. Believe hanging a draw on your piece will allow the rope just enough play to stay out of your way. Dec 6, 2020

Ace Landauer
Santa Cruz, CA

5.10d

Super fun! Short but strenuous. Gear was good the whole way and you get a solid rest before pulling the bulge.

Extend your pieces! I forgot slings and nearly lost a .4 in the bottom section. Jan 2, 2022