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Routes in Banana Cracks

Baby Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Peel T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Banana Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Papaya Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Banana Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tails Of Poodles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976
Page Views: 3,204 total · 21/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The Left Banana Crack is a fun, short, well protected finger and hand crack, with a mild overhang.

Location

The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a/b
Short but SWEET. Excellent jamming leads to a nice stance below the crux - which is exiting the crack. A high hand jam and a long reach with the left hand to some edges will see you past the crux.

Felt soft for the grade for JTree.

Gear: two of each camalots #0.5-#3 (2 or 3 pieces are for the top anchor), and a green or yellow alien are plenty.

We descended climbers-right all the way to the base. Apr 8, 2007
I thought this climb felt more like 5.10a than 5.10c. Feb 2, 2009
gregory huey
Irvine, CA
gregory huey   Irvine, CA
On a cool winters day these cracks - although they are pretty short - can be a nice place to climb in the sun and out of the wind. I would call this a 10c - the crux felt significantly harder than that on Tinker Toy or Taxman, which are rated 10b in my guidebook. Feb 6, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
The easiest 5.10 at Jtree for a crack climber. The ease of grade, the simple and good protection, and excellent stances for protection and rest make this a great choice for the budding "5.10" leader. Nov 29, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10
Not sure about that "easiest 10 at JTree" part. It is short, steep-ish and mildly awkward right in the middle. I'm thinking the crux is getting onto the big jug on the arete about mid height. The top-out was solid and features some slammer hand/fist stuff. Jan 5, 2014

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