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Routes in Banana Cracks

Baby Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Banana Peel T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Banana Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Papaya Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Banana Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tails Of Poodles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976
Page Views: 3,204 total · 21/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

52 Opinions

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The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The Left Banana Crack is a fun, short, well protected finger and hand crack, with a mild overhang.


The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.


Gear to 3 inches


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Short but SWEET. Excellent jamming leads to a nice stance below the crux - which is exiting the crack. A high hand jam and a long reach with the left hand to some edges will see you past the crux.

Felt soft for the grade for JTree.

Gear: two of each camalots #0.5-#3 (2 or 3 pieces are for the top anchor), and a green or yellow alien are plenty.

We descended climbers-right all the way to the base. Apr 8, 2007
I thought this climb felt more like 5.10a than 5.10c. Feb 2, 2009
gregory huey
Irvine, CA
gregory huey   Irvine, CA
On a cool winters day these cracks - although they are pretty short - can be a nice place to climb in the sun and out of the wind. I would call this a 10c - the crux felt significantly harder than that on Tinker Toy or Taxman, which are rated 10b in my guidebook. Feb 6, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The easiest 5.10 at Jtree for a crack climber. The ease of grade, the simple and good protection, and excellent stances for protection and rest make this a great choice for the budding "5.10" leader. Nov 29, 2010
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Not sure about that "easiest 10 at JTree" part. It is short, steep-ish and mildly awkward right in the middle. I'm thinking the crux is getting onto the big jug on the arete about mid height. The top-out was solid and features some slammer hand/fist stuff. Jan 5, 2014

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