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Routes in The Drilling Fields

Drilling Fields, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Gnome T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hired Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs on a Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 4,479 total, 32/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description

Can you say STEEP!?! Great moves between mostly big holds characterizes this journey up the central portion of the face. Begin up the highly featured rock passing two bolts. Pigs on a Wing (11a) takes off right from here and heads up the prow. Your route continues straight up passing a bunch more bolts on its way to the chains. While no move is particularly hard, the pump slowly increases as you power up the overhanging wall. Hang on through a slightly harder section midway, and dash for the anchors. It is a tad runout from the last bolt to the anchors, but a small to medium cam could offer supplemental protection. But hey... the wall is so steep you'll only fall into air :)

Location

Right smack dab in the middle of The Drilling Field wall. The usual scramble from the trail to the belaying ledge deposits you right at the base of the route.

Protection

Bolts, an optional small to medium cam might be useful for the last moves to the anchor. Bolted anchors with chains.
Ales Kobrle
San Jose
 
Ales Kobrle   San Jose
 
Big holds on slightly overhung wall. No hard or tricky moves, just little bit endurance will get you to the anchor. Jul 8, 2017
@Jeff: The first bolt is in a hueco cave sort of thing 10 feet or so off the belay ledge. Tim's protection advice is spot on to keep it extra safe. Oct 31, 2013
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
I went up and scoped this out at my last trip to the city. I could NOT find bolts down low. It appears to me that the first bolt is about 30' off the deck. Is that right, or did I miss something? Oct 24, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11a
A half inch cam after the second bolt (grey camalot) makes the bottom safer and a 1.5 inch cam at the top (green or red camalot) makes the top safer. Niether is neccesary since these are easy moves, but having done it both ways I prefer these two pieces of gear. to keep any drag down, put a long sling on the last bolt due to it being a bit off line to the left. Sep 7, 2012
CLamb
  5.11a/b PG13
CLamb  
  5.11a/b PG13
This was the best sport route at COR that I did on my weeklong visit there. It was so good that I did laps on it for endurance training. The start (first two bolts) is very "3 dimensional" and unlike anything I've done before -- really fun.

I wish there had been another bolt on the slab between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. While not hard climbing, if a foot slipped or hold broke, it would be a ground fall.

What the heck is the bolt off to the left up near the anchors. Clearly the route doesn't go over there, and there are no other anchors above that bolt indicating some other route over there. Jul 25, 2011
mfarmore  
 
The most enjoyable route in the COR. So buckety
that many do the route in running shoes! Aug 10, 2010
I followed this climb and loved it. I pulled one of the holds off about 2/3 of the way up and would have given my belayer and myself a scare if he hadn't been standing away from the base of the climb. Jun 29, 2010
ktmt
Missoula, MT
 
ktmt   Missoula, MT
 
Would have loved that little bit of beta about the cam when I onsighted this climb. It's a long way (20 feet) from the last bolt to the anchors, and since I encountered nothing that felt like 5.11 up to that point, I assumed the 5.11 lay ahead in the runout. It was heart-in-throat time, and I don't agree a fall from there would be casual. But the holds were huge and made for an exciting and secure finish, though still pumpy.

But, yeah, definitely take the cam. Oh, and ignore that last wayward bolt up and to the left. Nov 15, 2008
Iain Morris
  5.11a
Iain Morris  
  5.11a
A beautifully-colored wall. Each move is easy enough, but the pump can mow you down. Reflector oven in the afternoon. Jul 30, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
A gorgeous climb! One of the coolest patina face I saw at the city. A slung .75 camalot was just right for that extra bit of pro, there's a decent stance to place it from. However, you're almost done at that point. An .11a I could easily do all the moves on, but I was lacking some fitness to put it all together. May 15, 2007