Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Seth Dyer, JJ Schlick, James Martin 2001/02
Page Views: 4,452 total · 30/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jul 29, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Pussy Mind Trick takes a proud and aesthetic line of resistance up the steep front of the buttress. Expect technical face climbing, backstabbing arête moves, as well as, some down home crack slugging. Duking it out with the third pitch offers as much exposure as you can get on the formation and is an unforgettable experience one way or the other. May the force be with you and the mind tricks in your control.

To the right of Trundler’s Club.

Pitch 1, 5.12-, A stunning combination of features makes this line possible. Climb wistfully, if you can through shallow dihedrals, small aretes, and thin, solid face holds past bolts to a two bolt, semi hanging belay. The climbing on this pitch is technically demanding and uniquely beautiful.

Pitch 2, 5.10+, Climb hand and fist crack into the large flare and out the small overhang to the Triangle Belay Ledge. Standard rack and bolts. Hard not to enjoy this perfect little horizontal refuge. Above is one of the rappel anchors.

Pitch 3, 5.11+, Climb face past rappel anchor and then left past several bolts to reach the very thin crack. This section is very exposed and feels pretty wild. Climb the ever widening crack to the top and the party ledge. Standard rack + a #4 for the top, and maybe even a #5.

Protection

If it's your first go, a rack of doubles from #00 TCU- #4’s. A bigger cam could be used on the last pitch.

Rap the route carefully, with a 60M and you're rocking it with a 70M.

Photos

Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
 
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
 
A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Map…;w=420&h=400 (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out)
Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steeper face and can be pulled into the anchors. The rope won't go anywhere near the crack this way. Feb 12, 2012
Fantastic route! Somehow I had it in my head that the first pitch was 5.11, I was sorely mistaken, it is a brilliant pitch of sustained technical 5.12 face climbing! Very very intriguing and challenging. As for the approach, if you have a vehicle that can make the drive, drive to Chicken point and enjoy a leisurely 15-20 min approach and a heroes welcome from the Pinko's when you return! And don't fret about stuck ropes, just be thoughtful with yer pulls! Apr 29, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
excellent work by the FA party, though I am not surprised. The first half of P1 is thoughtful yet secure face climbing followed by a nice rest. Then get ready for two subtle and techy cruxes separated by another rest. Incredible pitch. 11 bolts.

For pitch 2, don't be tempted to burn your big cams (#3 and #4) too early, though there is a sweet spot for a #5 at the beginning. For the rest of this pitch you only need a few pieces up to #.75 C4, doubles in 1s, 2s, and 3s, and one #4. The two bolts at the chimney are right where you want them. "Triangle of Love" ledge is about as good as it gets. Apr 30, 2013
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I'm weak but I thought P3 was a classic sandbag (edit 12/2015: just did this again, definitely think P3 is very solidly 5.11), however my partners had no trouble following. P1 is as good as it gets! Figuring out the techy arete pulls and intricate footwork is a blast!

This should go without saying but... absolutely do not do this route after a rain, there are a ton of small holds ready to break off, especially on P3.

Climbed it in early January when it was sunny, no wind, and a high of 52 and it was perfect in a t-shirt (or shirtless)!

Approaching from the church via chicken point took us 30 minutes. Jan 4, 2015
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.12-
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.12-
The 3rd pitch is a number grade harder than the second. Fantastic route. If you are the sort of climber who is leading p2 and following 1&3, you might want a couple 4's. Or at least, whatever you do, don't place your only 4 too low. The first pitch is preposterously good. Dec 6, 2015
AL .
UT
AL .   UT
That first pitch is great! However, the 2nd bolt is placed in some extremely hollow rock. Any objections to relocating it? Has anybody fallen on that thing?? I'll just go ahead and echo what Kevin Kent said, DO NOT climb this route within 2 days if rain. Jan 25, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Happy to hear you enjoyed the route Aaron. I have a vague memory of nothing but hollow rock around the second bolt, though I could be mistaken. Last time we were up there the crux bolt was spinning too. If you have the time and energy feel free to address these issues. I think the new Sedona standard should be 1/2” X 5 3/4” Powers or glue-ins. Let us know how it goes. Jan 25, 2018