PRINT: Rock Climb The Awakening, City of Rocks

The Awakening

5.11a, Trad, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 75 votes
FA: Reid Dowdle
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > King on the Throne > King on the Throne -…

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Another outstanding City of Rocks mixed line. Predominantly a bit overhanging, this route follows an awesome 5.10ish crack spotted with face holds to quartz dike & a traverse left to a bolt. Head up the easy slab to a horizontal & build a belay with finger-sized pieces.

Location

The route is on the west side. Look for the awesome finger crack leading to a quartz dike with a bolt.

Protection

The crack eats finger-sized gear (TCUs and Stoppers). Build an anchor in the horizontal (plenty of gear options .5 - #2)

Rap chains next door for groovy crack, or downclimb the East side

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first move requires a jump start

As of April 17th, 2021 there is still no bolt at the crux which made for an exciting lead for Shaun.

Let the awakening begin

..."the Awakening "

The Awakening

Wyatt nears the business!

Just after the running/jumping start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT

crux is clipping the bolt. climbing eases above thre bolt. great route with neat features. Feb 6, 2007

Stefano Verde
salt lake city, ut

5.11a

Pretty Cool Route. The first move is unusual, like one of those trick boulder problems you try in the gym. I agree that clipping the bolt is tricky, I would say moving past it is the crux. May 13, 2007

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO

5.11a

There are not too many routes that have a jump start followed by a knee bar. This is a very fun route with good gear. If you are tall, the crux moves are over before you clip the bolt. Jun 14, 2008

Darren O'Connor

5.11a

I was happy to find that there is good protection all the way up this route (excepting the run-and-jump start). Having seen many climbers hang before getting to the bolt, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the moves to get to the bolt were no harder than the rest of the climb (though I did grab the draw to clip). Over all I'd say this is a very safe climb. Jun 20, 2011

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID

This route was popular and climbed for years (at least '76 when we first did it on recommendation from others) without the bolt. It was added in the mid 80's. Nov 25, 2011

peter heekin

F.A. Reid Dowdle Aug 15, 2013

Rachel S
Washington

Last week, my partner was rapping over this route and while rappelling was able to pull out the bolt protecting the crux with minimal effort. It was the second bolt we pulled out that day (first one at the decadent wall) that was basically just resting in its hole. So there is no longer a bolt protecting the crux slab move, which apparently was how it was originally led but I'm a wimp and I definitely wouldn't consider leading it without the bolt. Nov 13, 2020

Stephen King
Portola Valley, CA

The bolt that was removed (rather than simply being tightened, please let a ranger know of loose hardware) has been replaced. Hardware was donated by the ASCA. To support work like this donate today at safeclimbing.org. Jun 23, 2021

RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID

Why not remove the bolt permanently and restore the route to its original glory! You can put plenty of pieces in the perfect crack below it and if, by chance, you fall, its a clean fall. Besides, the thought of falling always makes you give it your best. Oct 2, 2022