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Routes in King on the Throne - West

Awakening, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Cracks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Groovy Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Groovy Toprope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sorcerer of Death's Construction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Water Groove T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle
Page Views: 1,825 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jul 29, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Another outstanding City of Rocks mixed line. Predominantly a bit overhanging, this route follows an awesome 5.10ish crack spotted with faceholds to quartz dike & a traverse left to a bolt (crux). Head up the easy slab to a horizontal & build a belay with finger-sized pieces.

Location

The route is on the west side. Look for the awesome finger crack leading to a quartz dike with a bolt.

Protection

The crack eats finger-sized gear (TCUs and Stoppers). One bolt. Downclimb third class slab to the main descent chains for King on the Throne.

Photos

F.A. Reid Dowdle Aug 15, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
This route was popular and climbed for years (at least '76 when we first did it on recommendation from others) without the bolt. It was added in the mid 80's. Nov 25, 2011
Darren O'Connor  
5.11a
I was happy to find that there is good protection all the way up this route (excepting the run-and-jump start). Having seen many climbers hang before getting to the bolt, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the moves to get to the bolt were no harder than the rest of the climb (though I did grab the draw to clip). Over all I'd say this is a very safe climb. Jun 20, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
There are not too many routes that have a jump start followed by a knee bar. This is a very fun route with good gear. If you are tall, the crux moves are over before you clip the bolt. Jun 14, 2008
sgreen Verde
salt lake city, ut
  5.11a
sgreen Verde   salt lake city, ut
  5.11a
Pretty Cool Route. The first move is unusual, like one of those trick boulder problems you try in the gym. I agree that clipping the bolt is tricky, I would say moving past it is the crux. May 13, 2007
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
crux is clipping the bolt. climbing eases above thre bolt. great route with neat features. Feb 6, 2007