PRINT: Rock Climb Santana, Owens River Gorge

Santana

5.11c, Sport, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 34 votes
FA: Gary Slate & Joe Rousek, 3/90
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Social Platform

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

One of my top five ORG routes. Perfect rock, sustained, intricate climbing and a unique belay, nearly in the river, combine for a memorable sport pitch.

The very right side of the Social Platform. In the past one would climb down a man-made rock wall, then traverse above the river to a scaffolding where the belay was established. Note: the route was put in before the river was restored and the original start is now underwater. Now, this route starts off the retaining wall and climbs the arete to the left side of roof. Traverse right to rejoin the original Santana, 19 bolts and 80 meter MANDATORY (close your system w a knot). One anchor total on route, at the top of Abraxas Finish. Clip 2 chain draws while lowering off to the left to facilitate getting back to ledge and keeping your rope dry. The upper cruxes are somewhat atypical for the gorge -- off vertical technical face moves with a 10d crux near the end.

Protection

19 draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Before the start was under water. I think this was in '94.

getting through the upper crux

The Belay

Santana

John Howland at the belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

426	[Hide Comment] still a classic, but more fun when you climbed off the mini "beach" Mar 27, 2007

Simon W
Nowhere Land

How big of a deal is it getting out to the belay platform?

I was scoping it out from across the river the other day and it looks like a long way from the first platform to the second, without much to work with on the wall.. If it weren't for all the cow shit I'd love to take a swim in the Owens River, but I don't want to get my rope wet! Sep 3, 2014

calder davey
Bishop

climbing a sport pitch above the river like that truly was very memorable. i was newer to climbing when i got on this thing and vividly recall looking down while climbing to grab the rope and seeing my belayers head poke out from beneath the roof and the river below that. so fun. Nov 16, 2015

Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or

Getting to the platform is not bad. We roped up and traversed in, but the climbing wasn't hard and falling would have been more of an inconvenience than a danger. Dec 20, 2016

Marty Lewis
Bishop, CA

5.11c

The Platform at the base of this route was removed along with the bridges in the Fall of 2018 due to LADWP liability concerns. Feb 11, 2020

Trevor Hobbs

5.11c

Santana is back! We added a new 4 bolt traverse into the flooded classic. Start at the 2 bolt anchor half way down the retaining wall below the main terrace. Climb out and right to the arete above the river for about 25 feet to the roof. Traverse right along the roof to rejoin the original line. A slightly longer draw on bolt 4 may be beneficial for rope drag. The middle anchor was removed so have a 80m rope (knot the end) and be prepared to go all the way to the Abraxas anchor (19 draws). The leader should look for 2 chain directionals out left to clip when being lowered. First chain is on a bolt between Tumbling Dice and Santana and the second is on top of the Hotcake Flake ledge. It’s likely difficult to clean draws on the way down and will be easier on TR. . The second should also clip the two directionals while lowering to facilitate getting back to ground and keeping the rope from falling in the river. The new start adds a few more fun 5.11 moves. Jan 11, 2021

Peter J
Bishop

Can't believe this thing doesn't get climbed more. The new start is fun, it's clean, straightforward, well protected, and has one pretty cool sequence! Although the original start was more in character with the route (and I liked it more.)
Runners on bolts 2-4 are nice IMO. Still one of the absolute best 5.11s in the gorge. I really appreciate the new start being added! Jan 31, 2024