PRINT: Rock Climb Gemini, City of Rocks

Gemini

5.12a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 301 votes
FA: Rex Hong, Mike Fisher, etc, 1988
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

An outstanding route with multiple cruxes. The name Gemini comes from a roller coaster at Lagoon in Utah, but it also suggests the route's two characters—thin razor edges to big jugs and vice versa.

Location

The route climbs the beautiful face between Donini's Crack and Coffee and Cornflakes.

Protection

Bolted. Chain anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Henry Faust at the chains of Loch Ness Monster, 11b (yellow). Green line to the right is Gemini, 12a (very high 1st bolts on both climbs).

John Fisher going for the glory hold

Brigham floating through the crimps during the 1st crux of Gemini

My crux on the redpoint (6'4" made top easier)

Gemini

Cole Ishihara crimps his way towards the crux of Gemini. Photo by Jonas Abdo

Fallon Rowe sticking the big move on Gemini

getting ready to crank on the razor blade

Last hard move

Dyno at the crux

Slutz crushing

John Baumchen post crux on Gemini. Photo by Jonas Abdo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ktmt
Missoula, MT

5.12a

One of the most memorable midroute rests you're likely to find. Safe, fun route. Good confidence builder for the grade. Nov 15, 2008

peter heekin

I believe the name Gemini comes from a roller coaster, as the whole wall is named the roller coaster wall. Collosus is a coaster at Lagoon in Ogden, Utah. I'm pretty sure Tarantula is another roller coaster, so I guessed that Gemini is one too. Oct 2, 2010

GRK	[Hide Comment] gemini is an old wood and steel rollercoaster at cedar point in ohio. its said to be the most ridden coaster ever, which seems funny cause the bingham guide calls this the most tried .12a in the city. 2.bp.blogspot.com/_5pgY7rdH…> Oct 5, 2010

zach cook
Boise, ID

One of the best in the city for the grade! crimpy and full of awesomeness! crux is in the middle between the fourth and the fifth bolt. Jun 18, 2011

JD Merritt
Eugene, OR

5.12a

DYNO!! (if youre short) Jul 3, 2011

Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT

Really really fun route. Definitely good for a leader new to the grade. Closely bolted, incredibly cool moves, beautiful rock. May 16, 2017

Chelsea Wood
Reno, NV

5.12a

That dyno crux is FAR! I am almost 5'2" and think I will be able to make the moves of the dyno after a few more shots on TR. Don't let yourself get discouraged by the dyno. Take time to figure out your beta and practice the moves several times if you have to. Many kudos to the on-siter! I thought the dyno was impossible for me (using my short excuse) the first few times I tried it, but after a couple more goes, it will be doable (update to follow).

Update: was able to do the crux moves without a dyno, which felt more comfortable and confident. Aug 27, 2018

brody douglas
Salt lake city

ktmt you're not kidding about that rest in the middle. Feb 13, 2019

Nate Liles
American Safe Climbing Asso…

Replaced remaining original bolt (1st) and added a mussy hook anchor in 2019. In cooperation with the NPS, Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) and the ASCA. Support from Maxim Ropes and the Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Sep 10, 2019

Andrei Dan
SLC, UT

beaut face climbing. Crimps are better than expected (first 12a lead) Nov 10, 2019

Chris M
Hailey, ID

Please brush the hold when you are done! Nov 7, 2020

Zackary Koyle
Burley, ID

I’m a bit shorter (5’5”)and I was able use a high foot then deadpoint rather than dyno Jul 1, 2021

Ryan Vanatta

5.12a

No dyno needed if you're able/willing to crimp May 13, 2024

Jordan Wilson

5.12a

Not sure the rest is worth it Aug 20, 2024