Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft (394 m), 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 23 July 2006
Page Views: 4,397 total · 25/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 28, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description

This casual route is classic Wind River Slab climbing. It is something new in the sense that it does not reach the summit of the South summit of Ambush, yet it starts at the lowest part of the East Face and climbs directly to the Huge Roof where difficulties would drastically change the nature of the route. Plaisir is a Swiss word for FUN and likewise casual (stress free) at the same time. This is a great route when weather may be a threat.

Pitch #1-#2: Start up the lowest toe of rock climbing easy slab toward a right facing crack system to a pin/bolt belay. May be combined as one long rope stretcher or simulclimbed. 5.3, 70+m.

Pitch #3: Climb higher into the right facing corner to a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 30m.

Pitch #4: Continue up the slabby crack system to another two-bolt belay ledge. 5.6, 35m.

Pitch #5: Super fun! A small roof followed by a dike out right passing two bolts leads to another broad roof series of overlaps and then back left in alignment with the lower pitches to a two-bolt belay ledge. 5.9, 50m.

Pitch #6: Continue up initially into a right facing corner then into a left facing corner system up really fun rock to a two-bolt belay ledge. 5.8, 50m.

Pitch #7: Continue up broken corners and fun slab to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.7, 50m.

Pitch #8: A finger crack goes up and left to the "grass humps" pitch, probably the only "dirty" pitch that can be said to exist on the route. Belay at a two-bolt belay. 5.7, 50m.

Pitch #9: Some casual climbing leads to a finger crack intersecting a band of black colored granite to a small ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.9, 45m.

Pitch #10: From the small ledge, pass a steep step past a bolt, and trend right to beautiful finger crack in more black colored rock to a two-bolt belay immediately beneath the right side of the huge central roof on the East Face. 5.9, 60m

Location

A low angle crack ascends for about 70m at the lowest part of the wall. This is 4th class, but the wall steadily steepens. All belay/rappel stations have been installed and this makes for a low commitment route for the Winds. Rappel the route. All clean pulls.

Protection

QDs and Camalots to #3. small and medium nuts

Photos