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Routes in East Fork Valley

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midsummer Dome, South Face Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midsummer's Dome SSW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southwest Face Midsummer's Dome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 21 July 2006
Page Views: 2,141 total, 16/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 28, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Ambush is huge and vast. The route we called Triple Shot as we passed three distinct "summits"...one of which we needed to rappel down to continue. The M Buttress is its own mountain, really. Basically, this is just to the north of the the North Summit of Ambush. A huge dike forms the letter M at the lower part of the wall/arete. The route starts at the far left lower side of the letter M and follows the beautiful left facing dihedral and then on to the arete to the top of the first tower. It forms a huge ridge with the passing of three gendarmes to the top of the mountain. I believe we reached a summit higher than the north and south summits of Ambush. We were looking down to them?! Some really classic and excellent moderate pitches await the adventure climber on this one!

Location

Start at the lower left side of the M formed by a dike

Protection

Clean rack up to 3.5 Camalots
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Did this in 2011, but we missed the nice dihedral low on the route as it was blocked by a ton of snow. We just climbed left of it for several pitches with a nice little 5.8 hand crack somewhere in the middle. This seemed like it would be easy to go around making it more like 5.6. The rest of the route was adventurous but never very hard with a rap off a tower in the middle. We did an interesting traverse behind the snow toward the top. Sep 13, 2013
Great to hear that something went in on this wall, I thought that the "M" was as notable a feature as the heart on El Cap. Aug 17, 2006