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Routes in Arid Piles - Northwest Face

29 Palms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
39 Slaps, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Edge of Doom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hare Today, Gone Tomorrow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Bunny Quits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Napkin of Shame T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice and Steep and Elbow Deep T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outsiders, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Quarter Moon Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Marjorie Shovlin, 1982
Page Views: 1,220 total · 8/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start from a small boulder on the right side of the base. The climb is an excellent exposed steep face. The 5.10B thin face at the top is runout.

Location

Southeast of the route 29 Palms, a tall steep block has this route running up its exposed outer edge, Scramble up a ways from the ground to get to the base of the block.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Ben H  
This route seems kind of sketch. I think I could pull the hangars off of the 1/4" bolts, or bolts completely out of the rock at bolt 3, maybe at 2, and two hangars off at the anchor. A substantial fall on this route would not be good. It is PG 13 assuming the bolts hold. I'd suggest rebolting, or giving it an R/X so that hopeful 10b climbers don't get seriously hurt/killed.

Otherwise the climb is a really fun climb with good opening moves. Mar 2, 2009
Bob Gaines  
 
The aging hardware on this route has received a major upgrade.

Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced all the old 1/4 inch bolts (2 protection and 2 anchor bolts) with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts (courtesy American Safe Climbing Association). The first bolt is still a good 3/8 inch 5-piece rawl replaced by Kevin some years ago. There was also a 3/8 inch threaded rawl drive at the top anchor that looked OK (replaced the hanger).

A spectacular route, now with new bolts! Jan 22, 2010
Ben H  
That's really awesome Bob. Thank you. I had stressed a bit about that routes safety. I felt obligated to go and do that myself. Better that someone who knows better than myself get it done instead. Its such a fun route, but left alone I could see someone getting hurt or worse. I'm sure it'll get plenty more traffic now. Apr 25, 2010
Bob,

thanks for doing that upgrade! I had always wanted to climb this route but was a bit wary of the aged gear on it. Next time I'm in JT, I'll climb it for sure! May 11, 2013

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