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Routes in Arid Piles - Northwest Face

29 Palms T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
39 Slaps, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Edge of Doom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hare Today, Gone Tomorrow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Bunny Quits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Napkin of Shame T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice and Steep and Elbow Deep T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Outsiders, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Quarter Moon Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Marjorie Shovlin, 1982
Page Views: 1,211 total · 8/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Start from a small boulder on the right side of the base. The climb is an excellent exposed steep face. The 5.10B thin face at the top is runout.

Location [Suggest Change]

Southeast of the route 29 Palms, a tall steep block has this route running up its exposed outer edge, Scramble up a ways from the ground to get to the base of the block.

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Ben H  
This route seems kind of sketch. I think I could pull the hangars off of the 1/4" bolts, or bolts completely out of the rock at bolt 3, maybe at 2, and two hangars off at the anchor. A substantial fall on this route would not be good. It is PG 13 assuming the bolts hold. I'd suggest rebolting, or giving it an R/X so that hopeful 10b climbers don't get seriously hurt/killed.

Otherwise the climb is a really fun climb with good opening moves. Mar 2, 2009
Bob Gaines  
 
The aging hardware on this route has received a major upgrade.

Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced all the old 1/4 inch bolts (2 protection and 2 anchor bolts) with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts (courtesy American Safe Climbing Association). The first bolt is still a good 3/8 inch 5-piece rawl replaced by Kevin some years ago. There was also a 3/8 inch threaded rawl drive at the top anchor that looked OK (replaced the hanger).

A spectacular route, now with new bolts! Jan 22, 2010
Ben H  
That's really awesome Bob. Thank you. I had stressed a bit about that routes safety. I felt obligated to go and do that myself. Better that someone who knows better than myself get it done instead. Its such a fun route, but left alone I could see someone getting hurt or worse. I'm sure it'll get plenty more traffic now. Apr 25, 2010
Bob,

thanks for doing that upgrade! I had always wanted to climb this route but was a bit wary of the aged gear on it. Next time I'm in JT, I'll climb it for sure! May 11, 2013

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