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Rumplestiltskin

5.12a, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 73 votes
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Don Goodhew 5/88, Direct Start: Porter Jarrard
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > The Enchanted T… > North (Left) Face
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Another classic tower endurance climb. Starts in a small dihedral through entertaining and easier than thy look moves. Continue up with big pulls between big pockets to a large rest. Figure out how to snag a rest here (I've heard of people sitting on the ledge), or if the pump clock is ticking start the sprint up the final headwall. Continue on steep rock for the next three bolts then enjoy the easier ground to the anchors.

Location

Look for the small dihedral just right of "Once Upon a Time". Last climb on the starting ledge for "Once Upon a Time" and "Grendel". Between "Once Upon A Time" & "White Witch".

Protection

9 Bolts + Anchors, Stickclip so you don't fall of the ledge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and the difficulties on Rumple.
[Hide Photo] Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and the difficulties on Rumple.
pulling the crux moves of <br>
Rumplestiltskin
[Hide Photo] pulling the crux moves of Rumplestiltskin
Matthew NM moving up into the resting corner on Rumple.
[Hide Photo] Matthew NM moving up into the resting corner on Rumple.
Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
[Hide Photo] Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
Meghan at the crux of <br>
Rumplestiltskin
[Hide Photo] Meghan at the crux of Rumplestiltskin
Lower moves
[Hide Photo] Lower moves
Meghan's "life preserver rest"
[Hide Photo] Meghan's "life preserver rest"
Meghan on <br>
Rumplestiltskin
[Hide Photo] Meghan on Rumplestiltskin
Mid-section
[Hide Photo] Mid-section
Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
[Hide Photo] Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
Matthew NM chucking another lap.
[Hide Photo] Matthew NM chucking another lap.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The third bolt is still missing on Rumple, but you can clip a bolt on the next route to the right at about the same height. Of course doing so is not ideal, but if you fall moving through the next section to the 4th bolt you at least won't deck.
Best. Apr 27, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it? May 1, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] As of Sept 2011, the missing bolt has been replaced. Sep 12, 2011
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Tried to rest by sitting on the midway ledge like my partner and wound up wasting more energy than it was worth. Super fun route! Apr 7, 2016
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] Re-bolted the route, removing the scary original 1988 SMC hangers and 5/16" hardware with burly 1/2" Rawl anchors and Fixe hangers. Enjoy! Sep 26, 2016