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Routes in Lower Freeway Wall

False False Smooth as Silk T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Smooth as Silk T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Planetary Motion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silkworm T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smooth as Silk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Start Trundling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stop Grumbling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stop Trundling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thigh Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wilma Rubble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Darryl Nakahira, Randy Vogel, and Maria Cranor, 1980
Page Views: 433 total, 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

a short finger jam crux leads to easier hand jamming above

Location

This is near the north end of the west face, to the right of Stop Trundling.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Albiet somewhat short this is a terrific route, very clean and climbs with greater ease than appears from the ground, descriptions in guides or MP. If it were longer it would warrant more than the 2 stars given.

The slab approach is fairly straight forward but agree with Tony, un-protectable; not a death fall but a skate to the deck nonetheless. Small gear protects the entry of this great rout and the thin fingers are complimented nicely with features. The route takes most excellent gear predominately in the 1/2" - 2" range with many rests.

True route exit is a question. As you near the top the perfect hands starts to get deep into almost a butt type crack, which although direct seemed more cumbersome than escaping slightly left and then up the face to the anchors. If exiting left, you might consider bringing a large cam (#4 or even #4 Camalot) before venturing up the face. Going direct appeared very awkward and would eat as many #1 Cams (deep) as you wanted to place.

Share or better yet extend & supplement the Smooth as Silk anchor for belay. Dec 28, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
The face getting up to the crack merits warning for those insecure about climbing without gear. It should be PG-13 or R. Nov 29, 2010