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Routes in Shady Lane

Cruisin' Down Shady Lane S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shades of Grey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shady Character S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Nate Adams
Page Views: 54 total, 0/month
Shared By: Nate Adams on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is thin climbing near the top. It is a fun route with good rests till the end.

Location

This is on the North-facing wall of the corridor, just right of the large tree.

Protection

6 (approximately) bolts.

Photos

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slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
This route looks great from the ground, but its kind of a pile. The climbing is OK, but the rock quality is really poor. I literally broke 10 holds on this thing. After TR'ing half of it and breaking another 5 or so, my wife said "lower me, this isn't worth climbing". I thought it was pretty hard for 11a, but I am assuming some holds have vanished....

I could possibly look past this and give it a single star, but unfortunately the bolting job cast the deciding vote. Completely unnecessary clipping cruxes at the 3rd and 5th bolt combined with a runout above a ledge on steep, crumbly rock to get to the anchor (don't worry, there is a hidden hold if you are willing to bury your hand in mud and weeds....) earns the bomb.

If for some reason you feel compelled to climb this, have your partner hang the draws (including a 4 footer from the anchor). Jun 11, 2012