PRINT: Rock Climb Mitten's Revenge, Red Rocks

Mitten's Revenge

5.8, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),

Avg: 2 from 31 votes
FA: Mike McGlynn 5/06
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (07) Willow Spring > Children's Crag

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Access Issue: Petroglyph route closures: Details

Due to their proximity to petroglyphs, 22 Minutes 'til Closing and Peaches are closed.

Description

This route requires a bit of a lot of different technique. The bottom section is a fairly easy crack, but requires a bit of thinking for gear placement. The middle bulge (first crux) looks a bit intimidating, but the crimps are all there. After a little offwidth section, the top section (second crux) is pure face; very fun and protected by two bolts. This last section is almost like a reverse "Lotta Balls", instead of balls, there are small dimples that you don't think will quite hold you, but do.

Location

This route starts in the obvious crack about 30' right of the start to "Tarzan's Arm", follows the crack up, over a bulge, through a short offwidth section, past two bolts, to the bolted anchors. As with all other climbs on this face, you walk off right, and circle back to the base. You could rap off with a 65 meter rope, with a 60 meter rope you end up having to downclimb the last 6-8'.

Protection

Nuts, cams up to #4 Friend. There are two bolts in the last 20' or so. Bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo of "22 Minutes 'til closing", "Tarzan's Arm", and "Mitten's Revenge" at the Childrens Crag.Photo courtesy of John Hegyes.

Rap anchor for Mitten's Revenge with anchor for Sumo Greatness (5.9+) in the background.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

EricD

The new guidebook (Handren) has this route labled as 22 Minutes Till Closing. Nov 15, 2008

john harrison

5.8

We went up the right side of the "bulge" on a lark. Felt like a nice 5.10. Then again.... I WAS wearing my approach shoes so YMMV. Nice foot holds but light on the fingers and with the ledge right below...... . Was sketchy pro on the right but fun moves. Left side felt much more solid. Holds seem delicate but more robust than they appeared. Rack: nuts and cams to 3". Mar 17, 2017

Harris Kashtan

5.8

This route has bolts/chains at the anchor that can be used to rap the wall with a 70m rope, not sure about a 60m. The crux at the bulge is a little heads up. Apr 27, 2023