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MoMo Buttress

5.9+, Sport, 140 ft,  Avg: 3 from 38 votes
FA: Heather Moroso, EFR
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 8 - Summit Crags > Ravens
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

10 feet of 5.6 bouldering gets you to the belay ledge. A little funky at the bottom getting to the first bolt. About 20 feet of traversing right leads to some fantastic airy face climbing. It is 140 feet long so you will have to belay from above.

Location

Approach the same as If You Bolt It They Will Come. Start from the ledge 10 feet above and behind the start of If You Bolt It... Climb up then traverse right following bolts to skyline covered with quartz crystal knobs. If you go to the summit three single rope raps. If you do the one pitch it takes two raps. The second rap from the summit involves a swing to the right to the anchors next to the chimney. From this rap you can make it to the ledge without stopping at the belay ledge.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

somebody at the buttress
[Hide Photo] somebody at the buttress
Pictured on the left bolt line are: Doctor's Orders/Head Doctor(they share the left start and split up out of view) and on the right line is Ravenous. MoMo Buttress starts 6 feet to climbers right from Ravenous(out of picture).
[Hide Photo] Pictured on the left bolt line are: Doctor's Orders/Head Doctor(they share the left start and split up out of view) and on the right line is Ravenous. MoMo Buttress starts 6 feet to climbers right…
Elliot up high on a beautiful day!
[Hide Photo] Elliot up high on a beautiful day!
Sara Hayes on the upper section of MoMo Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Sara Hayes on the upper section of MoMo Buttress.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Roda o Back
Casa do Cacete
[Hide Comment] Don't be a dumb-ass like me and start up "Ravenous" (with just quickdraws) by mistake.

Mo-Mo starts another 5 or 6 feet climber's right of the cold shut anchor on the ledge. Jul 19, 2008
JT Daiker
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] was that hold that broke off part of a gear placement on 'ravenous?' whatever it was, it ain't no more. Jul 25, 2008
Christian Roda o Back
Casa do Cacete
[Hide Comment] I'm pretty sure I pulled off part of the "pocket for nut" shown on the "Ravenous" topo in the book.

This may have to be updated to "pocket for tricam" in the next version of the book hehe Jul 25, 2008
Justin Headley
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] This route is accessed by going to the east face of the Ravens (opposite of what this climb is on), and going through the chimney between Raven C and D. Aug 14, 2016
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Just a couple notes for future MoMoers. This is a really great route, but be prepared to belay from above and have your follower clean the route. Cleaning on rap is not advised due to traversing nature. Also, be ready for a few sporty moves up high. Safe, but not gym bolting to be sure. Long story short: be pretty solid at 5.9+ before committing to this one. Jul 29, 2018