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Straight Edge
5.9+,
Trad, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 43
votes
FA: unknown
Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Old Easy
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
Description
Climb
MRC Direct, and belay on the large ledge that is down and climber's right from the MRC rap rings (gear belay). Straight Edge is the unmistakable splitter. Step across the chasm, jam a flared crack (#6 stopper works nicely here) to a small bulge, place pro, and gun for the top. The guidebook rates this a 9+; however, compared to other 9+s in Vedauwoo that I have done, this is a step up. It is definitely a 3-star pitch.
Location
Descent: From the top walk climber's right for 100 or so feet to a rap anchor. Do 2 raps to a shelf, walk off easily to the south east from here.
Protection
1 ea (#1 Camalot, #2 Camalot), 2 each (#3 Camalot, #4 WC Friend). Have an extra 4-inch piece for the belay.
Las Vegas
Salt Lake City, UT
Although the pitches below on the formation are great, if you're not a wide/fist-crack specialist, you might hate this pitch. Although the gear is good, without enormous hands/feet, you may struggle to gain decent purchase on the steep and sharp jams. At 6' with above-average hand size, it still seemed to me that the best jams were too deep in the crack for me to reach, and the feet rarely gave me enough of a break to get two good hands in.
Overall, I think this is one of those pitches where if you climb 5.10a+ wider crack well, you may like it, but others will probably not (and might consider rapping off instead of topping out with this pitch). Jul 18, 2013
Fort collins
Laramie, WY
Wyoming
Obviously, the 2x raps to the right are still an option as well, but my God, the belay just got way better.
Here's Stebbins putting in the goods last night: