Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Pre 1983
Page Views: 1,759 total · 12/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jul 22, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A very obvious line to the left of Vawter's Dihedral. A wide water polished crack that splits the rock all the way to the top. Full of features and smaller internal cracks so this is not an actual wide crack climb in the sense of technique.

A mildly overhanging crux start on polished rock leads to easier, yet still challenging climbing ahead.

Location

Limbo area, left of Vawter's Dihedral. Between two sport climbs. A wide crack on water polished rock leads to a chimney topout.

Protection

Route protects very well. Small to medium nuts and cams. Mind your pro at the start, it is a matter of protection over handholds which forces the leader to make smart decisions. Bolt anchor at the top, but a walk off (left).

Photos

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.9
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Got the rope stuck while trying to lower off of this climb. If you plan to TR this climb bring an exceptionally long piece of webbing or static line or an extra rope. Maybe 20+ feet from bolts to rope snagging pinch at the top of the climb.

If you lead this climb just bring your second up from the top and avoid all of this rope-snaging altogether. Then a short walk off left. Dec 16, 2006
slick indeed, the feet are tricky at the start, and for a non-gym climber this felt steep! Takes good gear though, although placing it was maybe the crux. Eases way up after 15 feet, pretty fun - stays in the shade longer than others. Oct 28, 2007
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Known also as Riff Raff on the Chris Hubbard Topo's. Feb 17, 2010
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
  5.9
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
  5.9
Finding pro after getting up the crux near the bottom isn’t too difficult but can be a bit awkward. Make sure you’re strong enough to hold on. A fall here could mean a possible shanking from a large rock on the deck. Careful! Dec 10, 2017