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Routes in Area 13 - Left Side

A Danger to Ourselves and Others T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bodhisattva S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borrowing From Tradition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapusero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chupacabras S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digit Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drop Zone S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exqueeze Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Yam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
IEPA! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mobetta Fogetta S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Trad Than Rad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Now and Zen S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Ain't No Weenie Roast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Many Princesses S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Will's Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Jerry, Sigrid, Lynnea and William Anderson, Aug 1994
Page Views: 5,273 total, 38/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A bit of face climbing leads up to the arete. Follow the arete up past an intermediate anchor, a corner and finally up the exposed upper arete. Long and fun. Can be done in two pitches or rappel in two rappels if you don't have a 70m rope.

Protection

11 quickdraws to anchor

Photos

Just wanted to add that we climbed this on a 60m rope no problem. If the belayer just belays closer to Digit Delight 5.9 next door you can lower the climber to the ground with a bit of rope to spare. 70m rope would be preferable as you could stand farther away from the rock and you're better able to see your climber. Jun 15, 2017
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
 
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
 
I lowered off this route with a 60m rope. Cleaning all the gear I was able to easily make it from the very top down with at least 10 feet of rope left over.

Also, awesome climb! If you don't finish to the top you are really missing out on the best part and the nicely exposed arete. Mar 2, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8
Exciting and fun near the top! Will make you feel like a rock star. Jan 30, 2015
213blc
THA WEST COAST
 
213blc   THA WEST COAST
 
Do yourself a favor and climb this super fun route as the sun is low in the western sky for a classic solar illumination experience! Sep 9, 2014
Zirkel
Bishop, CA
Zirkel   Bishop, CA
What a long, super-fun, stimulating and exposed route! A must-do! May 12, 2012
If you lower from the top anchor with a 60m, stay right and un-clip any draws that make the rope jog. May 9, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Lots of variety on this one with pockets down low to a fun stemming corner and then the finale up an exposed but featured arete. A classic and a must do route for the area.

We had about 15' left after lowering with a 70 meter rope. Sep 29, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Hmmm... not sure what Tom's talking about, with the 2 rappels and 70m rope. Yes, the route is long, but one rope is sufficient. We've done "Wild Will's Arete on numerous occasions and a 60m rope, although a stretch, will do the job. Also, the route can be descended with one rope in one rappel. Mar 20, 2010