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Pacific Avenue Dorm
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 17
votes
Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome
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Blackheads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blackjack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pacific Heights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Warren Hughes and Mike Van Volkem, October 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,396 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is an excellent clean, steep face with good protection above Chicken Mechanics. It is on a short, north-facing wall, and is usually in the shade.
To reach the small face with this route and Pacific Heights, either do My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom or Chicken Mechanics to the terrace about 30 feet below the top of the formation. Set up a gear anchor in horizontals on the terrace, then climb past three bolts on the left side of the face to the top.
To descend, downclimb the easy crack on the west face to a notch between this formation and Left Hand of Darkness, then scramble down through the boulders to the trail paralleling the road.
Location
To reach the small face with this route and Pacific Heights, either do My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom or Chicken Mechanics to the terrace about 30 feet below the top of the formation. Set up a gear anchor in horizontals on the terrace, then climb past three bolts on the left side of the face to the top.
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