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Routes in Roadside Rock

Cheap Thrills TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Another Roadside Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roy's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stains of the Stars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Todd Swain, and Derrick, March 1986
Page Views: 422 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A short crux overhang leads to a 5.8-5.9 fist crack.

Location

on the northwest end of the rock

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Murf  
...All of which means he probably can't remember one route from another. Also, we're talking about a Todd^2 route, it is probably a center for grainulous energy and one move wonderhood with scary fall potential up high.

--locker style edit-for Mike--
Its not that, but you get Gordex and Swain both on the FA, and there is some serious potential for todd effect ( the potential is squared actually, as noted above). As for Roger, and in the interest of self disclosure, I'm pretty sure I've done the route, but remember nothing about it. Send me an email 'bout how the trip went after I saw you. Jan 31, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
...not to mention 100 routes in a day - not too shabby! (Click on "Joshua Tree Big Day" for the full story). Jan 31, 2007
While I'll agree Linfield's route descriptions are as short as they come, he has climbed over 1500 routes in the monument alone. Jan 30, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
I thought it was std practice on Mtn Proj to list the guidebook rating of the climb when entering it into the database. Vogel guide gives it .10a. Linfield seems to have stuck his own rating on the entry, ...isn't that what the consensus system is for?...and written a poor description to boot. Judging from the description, I question if he has ever climbed it. The roof is certainly not the crux.

Route follows an initial flaky slab (or cheat in from the right on a spike of rock and easier ground) to a small right facing dihedral turning to a slanting roof that offers underlinging. After pulling around the roof is a stance with a wide crack (tight fist widening to OW) rising above. Crux is getting off the stance via a fist jam and getting established in the wide crack, there are a couple of face holds to help. No pump factor, roof liebacking much easier than it looks, a very short crux.
Jan 30, 2007

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