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Arachnid Tendencies

5.11d, Sport,  Avg: 3.4 from 45 votes
FA: Jeff Engel
Minnesota > Barn Bluff (Red… > Large Roof Area

Description

Fun route with a great and intense variety of moves that starts on the face to the left of Dumpster Does Duffles, the very last route on the bluff. It's a good idea to stick clip the first bolt. A strenuous lieback with fingertips on the face leads you to a sandy ledge where you can regain your composure. Then launch into the strange sequence of moves to get you up the bulge and into the corner, launch up and left to the sharp tooth, and pull up onto easier territory. Overall, a winner. Have heard several people say that they think that it's a little easier than 11d which the guidebook gives it. I'll probably stick with 11d. Let's get a concensus going here.

  • RCM&W #132, p. 140

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

You can TR this route from the route to the right (Dumpster Does Duffles) if you lead that one.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Under the roof.  Photo: Alyssa Herreid
[Hide Photo] Under the roof. Photo: Alyssa Herreid
Bottom section.  Photo: Alyssa Herreid.
[Hide Photo] Bottom section. Photo: Alyssa Herreid.
starting up the route
[Hide Photo] starting up the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. The roof section isn't has bad as it seems. The start is kind of strenuous with the crux going for the tooth or horn feature just above the big roof. Apr 20, 2009
Bryce Mikel
5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] I would recommend a stick clip on this one, the first couple moves are probably the crux, otherwise the holds are clean and the movement is great. Jun 10, 2019