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Gangsta Lean

5.8, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 136 votes
FA: Marty Lewis
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Dihedrals
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

This long left leaning corner system is very enjoyable. It starts in an awkward blocky corner crack up to a high first bolt. Pull past this to a stance at the base of the long ramp/corner. Follow this up and left to the anchors. Could be a little sporty if you're at your limit, but supplemental gear can be easily placed.

Protection

8 bolts, small gear up to 2" if desired, mussy hook anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lolo leanin
[Hide Photo] Lolo leanin
Mike A. on, Gangsta Lean.
[Hide Photo] Mike A. on, Gangsta Lean.
Huong gangsta leanin' on Gangsta Lean!
[Hide Photo] Huong gangsta leanin' on Gangsta Lean!
Starting up "Gangsta Lean"
[Hide Photo] Starting up "Gangsta Lean"
Good stemming opportunities to save some energy.
[Hide Photo] Good stemming opportunities to save some energy.
It's steeper than the last photo made it look ;)
[Hide Photo] It's steeper than the last photo made it look ;)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome route for the grade! The start gives it the appearance of being blocky and uninspiring--but the goodness can't be seen from the ground! As you gain height, each new traverse move appears improbable to be 5.8--but then you realize somehow it is.

Taking a few pieces of gear to supplement would not be out of order. Feb 17, 2010
Vit
  5.8
[Hide Comment] 5.8 is spot on, not a sandbag. The bolt spacing is fine, no need for gear. Dec 4, 2016
BAd
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A super fun classic. Loved it. Jul 10, 2017
Eric Leonard
santa cruz
 
[Hide Comment] A sweet long route, despite the unnerving flake, everything was awesome, bring your alpines. Nov 26, 2018
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Follow to clean or you're going to have a bad time. Lowers off to the start of Delicate Mechanism. Crux for me seemed to be the awkward transition into the corner (~bolts 1-2), after that it's delightful and easy technical climbing. Feb 7, 2021
Abigail Collins
Burlington, VT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route is so fun! I'm quite short and found the hardest/spookiest move to be between the first and second bolts. Reaching the anchor was also a bit weird for a shorty but all of the climbing in between is delightfully challenging and interesting. May 15, 2023