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Jack of Hearts

5.9, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 29 votes
FA: Bob McGown, Tim Olson, 1987
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > c. Silver Bullet Bluff

Description

This is a decent 5.9 crack that would be a lot better if the crack didn't end 20ft. below the top. The upper section is a bit akward and the anchors aren't placed all that well, but the botom half of the climb makes up for it.

Like the other routes on this cliff it's better left as a toprope.

Location

Start at the tree in the middle of the wall, just to the right of the bullet-scarred face.

Protection

Gear to 1", bolts with chains at the top makes for an easy toprope setup.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jack of Hearts on the right side of the prow
[Hide Photo] Jack of Hearts on the right side of the prow
There it is
[Hide Photo] There it is

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nate Ball

  5.9
[Hide Comment] Awesome fun thin lead, relative to the area. Bring lots of small cams and offset nuts. May 31, 2017
D Fletcher
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Shared anchor with Silver Bullet. Anchors updated to 1/2" inch stainless steel thanks to the ASCA. Mussy hooks added - feel free to TR on them if you want Dec 12, 2021