PRINT: Rock Climb Flex Your Head, Owens River Gorge

Flex Your Head

5.11d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 89 votes
FA: Marty Lewis
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Gotham City

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

The steep dihedral just outside of the alcove on the right. The climb starts up the face to the start of the steep corner system. Strenuous moves lead up the dihedral to a stance. From here perplexing moves lead left and up to a juggier finish. The climbing is amazingly varied and quite sustained. One of the best 5.11's in the gorge. The name is very fitting.

Protection

10 quickdraws to mussy hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Flex Your Head climbs up the center of the photo.

Dede follow the classic Flex your Head...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Steele
Bishop, CA

One of the best in the gorge. Do it! Jan 5, 2007

Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, AZ

Heard from my local friends that some holds broke on this thing and its now considered 5.12a? Any one confirm? Oct 24, 2016

Jesse Firestone

Anchors are extremely worn and need replacement. Take care. Dec 30, 2018

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC

5.11d

Beautiful line. Harder than most 11c’s in the Gorge. Nov 2, 2019

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca

5.12a

Not sure if something broke, but I did Grindite 2nd go, which is supposedly only a grade or two easier than this. I also got High Ball 11d on Pub wall 2nd go once i figured out the beta the following day. I could not for some reason figure this one out and actually had to stick click up top at the crux. Very sustained climbing until the crux, which made it seem even harder. I would easily give this 12a Jan 28, 2020

Gumby boy king

Super sick and has a dope no hands stem rest right in the middle. I thought the Crux was up higher around the second to last bolt, but the guide had it lower. Anyways super dope climb with a little bit of everything sprinkled in. Mar 28, 2020

Josh Harmon
Mammoth Lakes, CA

Open shuts are more than 50% worn through (May 2021). There is a mussy on its own bolt but the shuts are close to being sharp. May 9, 2021

Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA

5.11d

Anchor has been updated with ASCA hardware. One of the older bolts was stripped, so the cold shut still needs to be chopped off. Nov 18, 2022