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Macropsychotic
5.5,
Trad, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 6
votes
FA: unknown, long ago
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flatirons
> North
> Gregory Canyon…
> Amphitheater
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Details
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per
George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This climb is a good route on solid rock. Nice incut edges appear one after the other, and a crack offers very good pro at a relatively safe distance from the ground if you are leading. Climb up the face to reach a 1.5 meter section of crack 6m off of the ground. The crack goes from thin to fists over its length and is the distinguishing feature of the route.
After passing the crack, cling and edge your way up the arete just to the right on solid positive holds until the rock becomes jumbled and broken, then head in on a ledge and finish up the gap/slot/chimney between the Ginseng Pillar and the 2nd Pinnacle. This is a good route on good rock.
Location
From the west side of the West bench, continue south through a gap in the rock behind the Ginseng Pillar. Go down and right (south) a few meters, keeping your eye 7 meters up the West Face of the 2nd Pinnacle, looking for a distinguishing split block with a crack in it. The route starts below, goes through, and finishes above this obvious crack.
Protection
A light standard rack with a few nuts and cams hand-to-fist... I think. I didn't place gear though, as the climb is a good solo (even in approach shoes).