Type: Sport, 475 ft (144 m), 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby (1996)
Page Views: 945 total · 4/month
Shared By: GDS on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Warning Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is an interesting three pitch route located on the left side of The Fortress formation. The line is shown well on The Fortress Left Topo in Squeezing II. We used a 60 m rope for this climb.

Pitch 1: Climb up through corners off the deck and up to a grungy roof. Work left along this roof until you can pull onto the face. This pitch used only a fraction of our total 200 ft rope length. You'll reach a belay station for a double bolt belay stance.

Pitch 2: Easily the best pitch on the route. Work up the steep crystal face and follow the bolt line along a fun right traverse to a double bolt belay.

Pitch 3: Drifts to the right along easier terrain until the bolt line eventually disappears. From this point, there is only one more bolt until the anchors appear near the top of the formation. The bolt is not visible for some distance, so you must work up along the most obvious route and trust that the bolt will appear. The runouts approach 30+ feet, but they are all on 5.6 or easier face. A light set of pro and several slings to tie off small horns might make the leader feel better.

Walk off the formation using same route discussed in the thread for Steel Crazy. Rappelling back down to the base of the cliff would be especially unpleasant for this route and is not recommended.

Location Suggest change

Located on the left side of the fortress formation. The obvious bolted line that starts under a roof and to the left of Steel Crazy.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts; well protected on pitches #1 and #2. Long runouts on easy terrain for pitch #3. Consider bringing a small set of nuts/cams and slings to tie off small horns. All pitches end in double bolts/chains.

Photos

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